# IH 5488 with Baraki Hyd Valve

**URL:** <https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505>\
**Category:** Success stories\
**Created:** [18 February 2024 21:33 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505 "2024-02-18T21:33:55Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 10\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/g/90db22/32.png) [@greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/greenex94)\
**Post date:** [18 February 2024 21:33 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/1 "2024-02-18T21:33:55Z")

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I figured it was about time to officially call the project a success and share some pics of the final product.

 ![cab](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/0/c/0cf03182fba5d1406f50258ccb5331f8d8e72e8e.jpeg)  
 ![tablet & controller](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/1/d1817f69c37597aab5262ed9a570aa7b44aadfac.jpeg)

I have the tablet on a Ram mount off of the A-pillar. I recently upgraded to the size “C” ball and socket for more holding power. I have a little enclosure under the tablet with a 12V outlet, and USB adapter. I was originally hoping to charge via the USB, but that didn’t end up working out with the FZ-G1.

The (headlight) rocker switch is the “work switch”, and the foot switch is the “steer switch”. I’ve quickly realized that I want a different setup with the work switch and steer switch. In the future, I want to convert those to reside on the first hydraulic lever so I can easily toggle the work and steer switch when raising/lowering the implement. I’ll have to come up with a joystick for a few buttons and switches on that lever.

 ![was](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/9/9/9985eb1d5db81f86dd0b394cee75188b9eca3767.jpeg)  
 ![was close up](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/0/5/053021cbd672cc13d95ceba1e5f75ac868880702.jpeg)

Surprisingly, the WAS mount was one of the unexpected aspects of the project that took a long time to perfect. I ended up using weld nuts on the axle to mount the spacer/riser thing, and one on the steering arm for the link to the WAS sensor. I wasn’t happy with the mount until I put an 8mm shaft through 2 608 bearings to support the arm. Relying on the sensor itself for any sort of mechanical support of the sensor arm was a no-no, and was asking for trouble. It uses a sensor from the local JD dealer.

 ![side](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/b/8/b8696c5421decdbc36bb1b50e552da599b8616cc.jpeg)  
 ![baraki valve](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/f/4/f4e1739ff6589a81de5f2e06feeccdd5a5afe48e.jpeg)  
 ![other side](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/8/c/8c0bebde45d20de6c89fab2c120470d78918a130.jpeg)

At the heart of the system is the Baraki OC 30L valve. I originally thought that I was going to try to fit it under the hood, but I’m glad I didn’t. When I got the valve, and started playing around with the fittings and hoses, I quickly realized it was going to be too tight of a fit. I had an issue to work through with the valve, and thank goodness I had good access to it. It’s tucked in just behind the engine pan.

I’m working on a clone of this system for a 5088. A couple of things I’ll do differently this time:

1. I’ll have to come up with a different WAS mount, since it has a round axle tube instead of a nice square one like this tractor.
2. Like I mentioned, I want to make a hydraulic lever joystick for convenient placement of the work and steer switches, and forgo the rocker/foot switch setup I have with this tractor. I’ll probably upgrade this 5488 once I have something figured out.

Other than that, I’ll do everything about the same as with this 5488.

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**Author:** ![gpierce720](https://discourse.agopengps.com/user_avatar/discourse.agopengps.com/gpierce720/32/17991_2.png) [@gpierce720](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/gpierce720)\
**Post date:** [19 February 2024 01:37 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/2 "2024-02-19T01:37:21Z")

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Awesome job! It’s always cool to see others installs and success, especially on tractors from the pre-GPS era!

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**Author:** ![Iowafarmer](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/i/df705f/32.png) [@Iowafarmer](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/Iowafarmer)\
**Post date:** [14 March 2024 02:53 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/3 "2024-03-14T02:53:19Z")

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I have a 5488 FWA that is currently getting a kit put on it. It’s getting an electric motor for this spring but will eventually get a hydraulic block. I will definitely copy your placement of the hydraulic valve. seems like it’s a good spot for it. Once i get the hydraulic valve, the motor will be put on my 5288 sometime before spring next year. I also have the ih front axle on my 5288 so I’m curious to see what you come up with for the WAS.

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**Author:** ![greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/g/90db22/32.png) [@greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/greenex94)\
**Post date:** [14 March 2024 18:24 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/4 "2024-03-14T18:24:48Z")

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Awesome! Good to hear that more 88’s are living on.

I’m just starting the install on the 5088. I settled on welding a small piece of C-channel on top of the round axle tube to create a flat mounting surface inboard of the tube pin. I’ll share some pics when I have it finished.

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**Author:** ![Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/58956e/32.png) [@Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/Jmcfarms)\
**Post date:** [5 August 2024 21:30 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/5 "2024-08-05T21:30:16Z")

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Do you have a part number for the Deere sensor. I have a case ih 7110 and a 7220 I want to set up. Both are 2wd and the front axles look identical to the 5488 axle in pic. Do you have pics of was components before you assembled them. I think this setup would work well on my magnums

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**Author:** ![greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/g/90db22/32.png) [@greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/greenex94)\
**Post date:** [6 August 2024 13:20 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/6 "2024-08-06T13:20:09Z")

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The JD part number for the sensor is RE336709.

Here’s the rest of the components. The arm, key, mount, and block are 3D printed in ABS. There is a small length of 8mm shaft that runs through (2) 608 bearings.

 ![image](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/default/original/3X/2/0/2038605775b521971840a57070108a11ff6e9d4e.png)

The connecting rod is a 1/4-28 Stainless threaded rod, (2) 1/4-28 ball joint ends, and (2) 1/4-28 jam nuts.

I’m happy to share the printable geometry and you can put one together yourself. I also could print and assemble everything for you for a fair price…let’s say $100 USD with everything but the sensor. Let me know what you think.

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**Author:** ![Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/58956e/32.png) [@Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/Jmcfarms)\
**Post date:** [6 August 2024 15:08 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/7 "2024-08-06T15:08:41Z")

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I have a 3D printer if you have the stl files I could try printing it

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**Author:** ![greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/g/90db22/32.png) [@greenex94](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/greenex94)\
**Post date:** [6 August 2024 20:11 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/8 "2024-08-06T20:11:34Z")

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Here’s a slightly updated version than shown. There are (4) 3D printed parts: bearing block, spacer, sensor mount, and link (with the sensor key). I’d print the link on its side so the key doesn’t shear off in the sensor.

[88 series WAS parts.zip](https://discourse.agopengps.com/uploads/short-url/8RjIjdAGTT8PxVlIv1SnZva8TLw.zip) (477.2 KB)

I forgot to mention that my means of securing the 8mm shaft to the link was via a 5/32 roll pin. I had a hard time drilling the hole, so I changed it to a D shaft. I took my 8mm shaft, ground a flat spot on it with a hand grinder, heated it a bit, and squished it into the 3D printed part. That’s a lot easier than the roll pin.

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**Author:** ![Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/j/58956e/32.png) [@Jmcfarms](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/Jmcfarms)\
**Post date:** [6 August 2024 21:53 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/9 "2024-08-06T21:53:29Z")

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Thanks for sending stl file

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**Author:** ![Richardklasens\_admin](https://discourse.agopengps.com/user_avatar/discourse.agopengps.com/richardklasens_admin/32/22279_2.png) [@Richardklasens\_admin](https://discourse.agopengps.com/u/Richardklasens_admin)\
**Post date:** [15 December 2024 12:58 UTC](https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/ih-5488-with-baraki-hyd-valve/15505/10 "2024-12-15T12:58:44Z")

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