DC Motor model

Really interesting! Do you have a link to those?

Also the wheel you have attached, is that a purchased item or your own design?

Here is a link to the (so far) better motor:

I have 24V with 1:13 gear. The bracket is also good to take.

The wheels were ridiculously priced, but looked solid and had a matching 8 mm D-shaft. They fit great to the motor and the alloy construction with 6 pre-drilled holes makes it easy to attach sprockets etc.

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This is the motor I tested now (short report below) and it indeed works straight from Arduino.

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I was literally looking at these wondering if they would work!
Thanks, for the great info!

The motor looks very nice, and I was about to order this guy as well (should be equal to this one).

In that offer, they say (and confiremed my via email, too), that only one motor reversal per 10s is allowed (please see “Product Usage Notes”)

If this is the honesty, it would make it totally unsuitable for AOG. Maybe you do a test on a concrete floor with nothing around, let it reverse two times per second for a night and let us know, if you have to open a dispute.

Okay, interesting. I can’t open your link, by the way (it’s a snapshot of the page).

That might be related to heating of the motor internals (the motor coil), since starting current might well be above the nominal current. This internal heating might not be felt on the surface as a hot motor. During about a hour of benchtop testing this motor never felt even warm. However, there must be a huge difference in 100% load, 100% speed, 100% environment temperature reversals versus smooth turning that AOG provides through PWM.

Even standard industrial 400V motors are typically only rated for max 20 start/stop per hour, but we’ve never had a motor burn for exceeding that by a big margin.

I will report from the field eventually.

Bildschirmfoto vom 2021-01-25 07-59-52

Here is a prototype mount for our Case Magnum. Decided to mount the motor fixed with the steering wheel locked against it in a quite upright position. I can disengage this by just pushing the steering wheel adjust pedal on the floor and pulling the steering wheel to normal manual driving position.

I also used the OEM wheel angle sensor of our tractor, which has both low resolution (4WD & Diff lock disengage) and high resolution (autosteer) wiring. The high resolution wires were not used before now.

Will do some test drive later today.

Screenshot_20210125-140142~2 Screenshot_20210125-140850~2

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The 12 pulses per rotation may be sufficent. The small wheel if 2” in circumfrence would have to travel 56” to turn a wheel 18” in diameter. At 12 pulses per turn thats 340pulses total. Almost 1 pulse per degree.

So knowing the steering wheel diameter, free play, drive wheel diameter. The only thing to be accounted for is slippage.

I think with some creative programming this could be used to eliminate the WAS.

But it would have the apparent wobble start issue of the early ez steer units.

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Yes, I was having the same issue but then I got assistance from Reliance electric motor. Motor controllers are used with both DC and AC motors.

I’ve been keenly waiting for your test results from the prototype mount :slight_smile:.Have you had time to test the motor in that setup?

I’m using the phidget motor + cytron and struggling with the resistance it is giving, while not in use. Would be very nice to swap that stuff to this, if it works nicely and doesn’t burn.

If resistance is your problem, you might want to try this:

Works great for me with gear driven setup. Very easy to do without extra components.

Hello,

Can i power the 24v Phidgets motor with 12v or is it gonna hurt it?

You can but you will get 1/2 speed and power of motor.

Voltage converter is cheap and you get full speed and power of motor.

Ok good, well i bought those 12 to 24 too but was just wondering in case i wanted to test it with 12v.

Why is my Cytron Md13s kicking to Error when i connect it to 24v ?

Do you happen to have a photo of your connections?

No, disconnected it so we are using right now on 12v. But i think it would work way faster on 24v. Gonna check that again once i have time to see if i’m doing something wrong. One other question, does the motor get slower (or fall behind) if the wires would be little long from Cytron to motor?

Keep motor wires as short as practical, use a conductor sized a bare minimum as big as the leads on the motor, if not a size or two bigger.

Only have tried 24v running the phidgets motor, it is specd for 24v.

I use 5m cable on 24v but its best to keep them short as posible 10.8A stall so you need wires that will not burn before fuse blow.

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