Hi,
this motor topic confues me hard.
Can someone tell me the latest recommended DC motor, which is replacing the Phidgets. Idealy including a link also to the driving wheel.
Unfortunately the linkes from Juurikko are not aktive anymore.
Where can i find basic holder which can be adapted ?
Is the China replacement and equivalent motor, exact same specs? If yes, then no need to change the motor recommendation (the recommendation is for the part, not for a particular shop).
These wheels have 12mm shaft you can drill out center and get it on motor and you need flange coupling that have screws or cutout slot hole to use slot that you get with motor.
If you can print then go for gear system, there is no slippage, looks better.
For motor in AOG fashion 12V battery drill but as many found out you go out and buy a phidgets 3269_3 and have tested proven motor and one less thing to worry about in endless possibilities of settings and setups. Time, materials and work that has to be done for motor holder will be more then you save on cheaper motor with high risk of failure in autosteer rapid back and forth movement.
If cheap motor fails you have to replace it and 2x motors will cost as one phidgets and who says that it will not fail again. Or you will then buy phidgets and make new holder for it either way will cost more then going with good motor first time.
You can get lucky and cheap motor is actually good then you can post hire so others can use it.
X2 on @PotatoFarmer ’s printed gears!! Not only does it look better, but it’s a much better utilization of space! No wheel slip either. Not to mention it’s an excellent excuse to buy a 3D printer!
In the gear vs tire debate, gears take much less force to stay engaged, and as its been said the no slip gives no surprises, and the wheel is completely free no pinch point, no flat spots either.
But the greatest part of AOG is its never finished unless you say it is, you can always revisit or change a mounting bracket or control type at a later date. For your first build just do whatever it takes for completion. Amazing how much more build planning can happen when you are not driving.
I bought hubs from Phidgets that fit their motor. Then as a proud Canadian I use hockey pucks as the wheels. Spring tension for friction and I’ve never had an issue with slipping.
Daniel, this one looks like the Phidgets motor. I did not find any stall current figure for it, is it safe for the usual AOG motor drivers, IBT and Cytron?
Idea: Why not bypass the 12 V to 24 V converter during line operation and running the motor with full power during u-turn?
Just to more relais or transistors are required.
Another approach could be designing a voltage-boost-converter with digitally controllable output voltage (maybe 4 steps between 12 V and 24 V).
However the complexity of the controll loop will increase.
Did anyone tried to use electric steereng from car for motor?Seems to me it has speed and power as needed.
I have it on my corsa c , and even it has no power stereeg wheel goes easy.
Do you think the Corsa power steering motor would be less expensive than the ones that are mostly used here? Do you think it would be mechanically easy to install to turn your steering wheel. I assume you do not want to use it to directly steer tractor wheels.
Honestly, the most common motor can be purchased quite cheap. I don’t see any point spending time on other options. Support from the forum gets scattered when so many different components are being used.
I understand real experts playing with parts for different reasons but they don’t need to count on forum help if they face issues.