First time post.
Before I spend 10s of thousands on upgrading our Trimble GPS I thought I’d look into agopengps.
I have a New Holland T8010 fitted with a factory auto steer valve an Eaton Vickers KDG4V-3S-2C19N-VM-KU-H7-60-EN648.
My question - is this valve easy enough to use with agopen or does it fall into the category of CANBUS and hard to use?
You can easily connect it to AGO.
like @baraki said it will be easy to connect.
These coil work with PWM with the official arduino code. Maybe just check if the lead polarity matter. I don’t know if some coils have built-in diodes?
On this setup you probably also have a pressure transducer for autosteer deactivation. With some change in the code you can use it or you can put a pressure switch there.
Thanks for your replies
That’s a good start.
I have schematics and appears to be a diode in the mix.
The labels are a bit conflicting in what they are named in the schematic as they have a different name either side of a plug
From what best fits it looks like
S.V LT LOW. 411
S.V. LT SOURCE 982
S.V. RT LOW. 410
S.V. RT SOURCE 419
So would LOW be hooked to common GND
SOURCE be IBT Motor Driver?
I have also found pressure transducer on schematics, looks to be a variable resistor of some description.
If it can be used can this do away with steering wheel encoder?
LOW to commun GND and SOURCE to driver sound good.
But I highly recommand to use a Cytron MD13S
Yes, if you are able to read the transducer.
I used this pressure switch Hystar DNB-070K set at 200-300psi, this works without changes in the arduino code
It work with a micro-switch so probably a limited live of 3000 to 5000 hours for this application.
The steering wheel encoder will maybe be smoother to cut the autosteer, you will have to find the good pressure setting for a good operation.
Ok, I have got a Cytron MD13S on order.
I am thinking for my first build to go with steer encoder to keep things simple.
Thanks again for your help.
No that would burn the protection diode (the diode in the box "To steering solenoid) on the valve, but check with multimeter.
Fig. 4: A diode is connected in reverse bias across a solenoid coil that is powered by dc voltage. The diode protects other electronic components in the circuit from inductive voltage that occurs when dc voltage to the coil is de-energized.
But if… it is actually a LED you have on the valve (in the connector) then read this.
@Larsvest Is there a way to check a diode orientation in a coil disconnected? Will there be a significant difference in the resistance (ohm) testing in one side or the other?
Does coils with a Cytron MD13S need diodes?
There should be some 400 to 500 ohm measuring from black end to white end. With + at white end it should be blocked.
Not sure if diode is neccessary with motor driver, as they are already shorted between outputs when off (as far as I know)
I have the same ventiel I would be interested in how you have completed it and whether it works. maybe you have a circuit diagram or a photo, thank you
Thanks for your help.
I tried to find the orientation of the solenoid by ohms test and diode test on the two wires coming from each solenoid and either way I put the leads it had the same reading. Am I doing this right or is there another way to test for ohms?
How about an amp test?
If I supplied 12V to the circuit with a multimeter testing amps (and maybe a 5 amp fuse added to protect the multimeter) the correct orientation should draw less than the incorrect - which would have the diode almost shorting the circuit?
What are your thoughts?
I don’t think your coils have the diodes.
Your first picture show a different connector, maybe wires directly into the coil.
Diodes are often put into a connector like this. connector Led 24v dc/ac - OCGF
Reason to be careful, your wire diagram show a diode somewhere in the system.
I have come to the same conclusion.
Did some amp tests and they were equal as well.
I may even be missing the wiring loom with the diodes in it by the looks as it an open plug that leads into the solenoids.
This might work in my favour though I guess.
When hooking them up to the Cytron should I put some diodes in there as safety or just go without?
When reading this (about half way down) Cytron Design: DC Motor Driver - How it works | RobotShop Community
I come to the conclusion that flyback diode is already in the Cytron.
It has this text:
Do we still need the flyback diode in this case? YES! We still need the diode to conduct the flyback current for a short while during the dead time until the flyback MOSFET turns on. Fortunately, every MOSFET already has a body diode built in and extra diode is not needed.
MOSFET body diode.