Hi all, I plan to order an all-in-one board in anticipation of running an F9P for GNSS, however, I’d like to start off with a Starfire as that is what I have on the tractor already. Since I already have pitch/roll corrected NMEA strings coming from the starfire, is there a way that I can get these to AGIO and bypass the BNO085 and F9P?
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Do you have the pins/connector for NMEA serial output from your Starfire? Which Starfire components do you have in there?
The serial data coming out of the Starfire should be RS232. If your AoG tablet has RS232, just plug it in (might need a null modem / crossover adapter). Otherwise you’ll probably need to use a RS232 to USB or Ethernet adapter to connect to your AoG tablet.
AoG doesn’t care where the NMEA (position) data comes from and the AiO can still act as a steering controller without any F9P or BNO plugged installed.
Excellent, thank you. I am currently using an RS232-USB adapter to run AOG as a lightbar, so I’ve just added TX and RX wires to my starfire harness such that CAN goes to my greenstar display and RS232 to my tablet via that USB adapter. Can I keep this configuration and just add a PCB for the teensy/steering stuff?
Unless you want to expand to using an F9P & BNO the AiO/Teensy is overkill. It can do the steering controls for you but the old v2 Nano based steering module will work just as well.
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You can keep that configuration and add a PCB for the steering stuff. It doesn’t have to be an AIO, it can be something else. Since you won’t be doing PANDA; an Arduino board would perform the same as a Teensy board.
In AIO you’ll make your UDP connection to the board, and the click the GPS icon and change the com settings for the GPS.
I’ve been playing around with the GPS built into my tablet. I can get a fix, and RTK ntrip works. I’m hoping it would make an acceptable lightbar for some open station spreading.
Sorry to drag up this older thread but came here to ask a similar question but in my case my external gnss receiver is not roll/pitch corrected so will need an imu, wondering if I should just build the V4.1 micro PCB to keep things ‘standard’ and straightforward but I will not have to purchase an f9p, or is there a better PCB option for this scenario?