are you using differential mode for WAS? I remember Brian said you have to use differential mode when using WAS already mounted on the tractor, different grounding
Yes I’m aware of the .ino setting and have changed it. I didn’t ground the oem sensor to the arduino though, that I’m planning to do next. But after I played with the steering settings today I managed to stop the freezing I think. It was just the max steering angle and the counts per degree that was the problem I think. Still noise on the radio so I’ll try the grounding to see if that helps. But thanks anyway.
Hello Alan,
what did you use as a replacement for the VX 7805 (IC2 and IC3 on the board)?
Only if you want to retain the existing connections on the tractor and just steal the signal. But if you run your own power to it and ground, then you can use single.
Hi. these off Ebay.
Thanks. Are you happy with those? FWIW here is a post by @BrianTee_Admin on the old combineforum on the VX7805. I am curious to know how it relates to the L7805 alternative.
From what I could find out, given the low power requirements of the board, the L7805 would be fine. I think the VX is more efficient especially at high voltage differences with load but I may be wrong. I know linear’s are not efficient in this scrnario. Mine works fine and my sensor outputs are very stable, which seems to be an issue for some.
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Great website!!
The only difference between the vx7805-1000 and the v7805-1000 is the vx has an input voltage from 8 to 36v and the v from 6.5 to 32v. Other then that, both are 1A and identical.
I’ve changed the parts list for v4 to show the v7805 as the vx is harder to find.
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Given our low current application wouldn’t an L7805 be not only cheaper but also a lot less noisy?
I’m no expert so this is a genuine question not a criticism.
Does anybody have a recent BOM for the autosteer PCB from DigiKey 
Half right. The WAS circuit can use the linear 7805 - that’s what i use, and the main circuit with UDP ethernet module will cook the linear one, so that’s why the v7805 is spec’d
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Spent a few hours of my shelter in place time tonight with the soldering iron. First, big thanks to JWR for helping me out with the PCB’s. I’m pretty happy with where I was able to get. Hopefully not too many mistakes or bad solder joints. I started with the shortest components and worked center out, then progressively went to the taller components. Will start testing over the next few days. ps…on the BOM I uploaded above, appears it has components for this board plus the relay board 
Question: For the holes that don’t have anything in them (yet), should these be jumper pins or terminal connectors, dealer’s choice? (i.e. On/Off, Reset, SCL/SDA, Dog2, D2, D5)
Ah right. I’m not using UDP. Mine has 2 L7805’s because I’ve got no real load on them.
Looks good, you may need pins or solder directly to the on/off, for switching whole thing on. The reset maybe optional, for resetting the nano. The rest I wouldn’t put anything on until need but don’t think you will. Make sure you put your little six pin units (not sure of their proper name), they are beside your steer imp and remote connectors in the right way, I had mine mixed up
OK, so I have the board up and working and all is testing out well on the bench.
A couple of items I’m working to figure out:
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For the steer engage,it appears that if you use a mechanical button to engage, the soft button on the program is useless. I was hoping if using a button, you could use either the mechanical or soft button. When I press the soft button (just a momentary button, not a switch), the Ardino code flops it back on the next update cycle. Is there a way that you could use either to toggle on/off?
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I’d like to activate an implement lift / lower signal. This year, will probably just be a light, but in the future would like to automatically raise and lower. If I go back a few versions, there were a series of actions you could program before and after crossing a turn point. Are these gone? Do I need to make a simple machine board for relay(s) to run the raise/lower functions?
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Any alternative sources for the Ethernet module in the US/Canada? Amazon’s delivery is 4/21; but everyone else seems to be shipping from Hong Kong or China and are also 3+ weeks out.
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For autosteer, I’d like to try a direct drive (non gear reducer motor). Main reason is I’d like to be able to leave the motor mechanically engaged and steer when doing misc turns, etc. I’m think about trying something like this: Amazon.com Think it will work? Has anyone tried similar?
I have connected the pin6 to gnd.
Is it possible to just use the New Arduino Code from v4 without Pcb Board?
If its possible… Where are the point which are important to have a Look?
Pin D6 to Ground vor switch
Pin D3 LPWM
Pin D9 RPWM
Pin D4 DIR
I have exactly wird it like that. But the Motor do not move.
Hi @Bada I haven’t tried verio 4 yet, but last night there was a discussion on Telegram on this topic.
Of which this quote:
“Drive function needs double activation in v4: The drive button on the screen and the autosteer switch have to be on. I guess this wasn’t in V3.”
Brian Tee, [30.03.20 23:26]
[In reply to Kaupoi]
You have to turn everything on, enable autosteer as well. It’s so you can’t accidentally just start moving the wheels without you physically turning it on. Also it then tests the whole system.
I have all the necessary parts installed on the plastic board. (unfortunately without optocouplers) Will definitely work with the latest version as long as all settings are correct and
sent to Uno’s memory.
The circuit board is good. It reduces the number of wires, errors and is clear.
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