Like @Kaupoi said it seem that your receiver is at 1hz, that make also your wheel sensor update only once per second, you will not have good performance with these settings.
So since you are using an SimpleRTK2B the first step is to update to firmware 1.13 and configure it the output at 10 hz.
here for the steps to update the firmware here to see how loading configuration files or changing settings yourself.
There are configuration files available on this forum, search for 1.13.
Personally I always change it manually, I have a list of changes to make for rover and base.
Be sure SBAS is enable in v1.13 if you are not RTK
Hey Mueller.
Tried the same gears for the steering wheel / motor on our jd 6r.
Looking at the videos above, sounds a bit noisy.
My experience was that the 3d printed gear wont hold up against the metal gear.
May be a good start to get going but looking at it closer, the teeth are not real gear-teeth.
Redesigned it in straight spur gears. Not perfect, but waaay smother. May be helpfull.
Hi Lui
Thanks for the tip,
it is noisy in the video, I still need to do some work making the bracket sturdier, Im hoping that will help.
did you print that motor gear on the original design part with pla or with a flexible material like tpu? I used sainsmart TPU and in my experience it is quite strong and durable. But I need more time for testing.
what material did you use on your design? how many perimeter layers and infill %?
Looks good.
Nice concept to adapt gear, could you share it on steerring mount files ? John Deere
as information
The Tpu is like rubber i it is very soft and strong very hard to grind, wear .
The combination of steel and TPU is not noisy and the small teeth is to catch a small adherence but the most important it to make pressure like friction type concept to do like tyre on the road
as example , this summer a video on the cab you can ear the noise of PWM to electric motor and steering rotation and sorry but the noise of suspention seat (7000hr) is boring
Update ;
The aluminum gear didn’t hold up, so I printed the gears that lui shared with us. Thanks for that!
I printed and mounted the surface in the corner and I have a wireless keyboard and mouse.
Questions ;
When it’s driving straight it seems to have 6-10 or so inches of “play” I’m not sure if the gps or the steer setting are the reason. Possibly a bit of both.
Right now I’m using the arduinosimplertk2b with no correction, but did enable sbas.
Now I just need to spend some time cleaning with the wiring and probably move onto the next tractor and make a base station.
Had a similar issue.
Checked the WAS values, if 0° is actually about 0°ish. By driving straight in manual mode.
Checked the values for antenna position in aog.
Checked the values for Minimum PWM and Low Max PWM. So the system is able to correct small errors.
What brought in the most peace was placing the antenne a bit forward in the end.
Using the dual gps with the code from @MTZ8302 it is easy let the esp32 calculate the antenna position ahaead of the physical position.
Not sure if this is the correct way of doing it, but may help.
I have heard alot about the dual antenna, but im not clear on what the main advantages are?
more accuracy? does it calculate roll? I’m just not clear what makes it worth the extra time/money/setup
Thought I would take some pictures of the install, might help someone else along the way.
I really like the breaded wire loom, it really makes the job look more professional.
Maybe some one can rename this thread, 6125r install.
As it ended up being a summary of the problems and answers I had along the way.
All together you have a very nice build
But I will point out that disadvantage of mounting far ahead (and as low) as you do on the picture of antenna on the front-weights, is that tractor shadows away all satellites behind it.
With heading from the new BNO or Cmps it is no longer important to place antenna in the front.
Remember high and FREE sight is important for placement of GPS antenna.
Both cmps and bno are under test and both seem to work well. They can both connect to I2C.
There are working ino for both of them (brian made one for cmps and Math for bno) Math also made a good intro in the readme.md file on his github.
You find it around post 170 in the bno085 thread.
They are basically the same thing, so price and availability is up to you.
Brians ino see post 2 in cmps14 thread
Hi Larsvest
You mentioned that mounting the GPS antenna on top of the cab would be better, so tonight I thought i would test the GPS mounted infront like it is in the pictures above and I had no issues getting a RTK Fix. might have to do with the hood is not metal, its a plastic or whatever.
Do you think there would be benefits to mounting the receiver on the cab or should I take advantage of having the GPS forward to help with the steering corrections?
I do plan on adding a cmps14 but at the moment seen out of stock in canada online.
It is fantastic how strong the F9p receiver are -
Leave the antenna in front (I have mine on the hood)
Experiment with the fix to fix distance (mine is 3m at the moment)
Heading is quite stable also without my bno085
If you some day notice problems with rtk fix, you know what to do!
I seen in the telegram group they where talking how much nicer the UDP was vs USB, I was trying to think what I would need to change on my system to make that happen, but I havent seen a UDP adaptor for the ardusimple F9P? or am I missing something? maybe there is a adaptor for the xbee socket but I’m already using that for the radio link.
