Not got this figured out yet, I tried setting an offset in AOG for the implement, but for some reason that cause AOG to keep flicking between lines when on track, its something I need to look into more, for now I have just set the width, and just shift the line every other pass to move over the width of the windrow for example, not ideal but works fine for now.
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I would like to know, how you finally set up your hydraulic steering. Do you only use the Hydraforce SP57C valve and found some good working settings in aog, or did you add a pressure compensator as mentioned above?
We were spaying with a small tool and a large turning radius. Hard to stay on the line and very hard to find the right line during the u-turn. (We were not using auto steer). Hacked into the code and built a stickyAB button. It simply changed lines when we told it to. Right or left buttons were modified to jump right or left a given number of steps. Worked very well for us, just stop at the end of the row, offset where you want and u-turn. Just a thought.
It is running with no pressure compensator at all, there is no need for it now, all these do is slow down the “max flow” which isn’t a problem anyway, its gaining control of the fine flow thats the hard part, but with correct settings, and latest version, its easily possible. Its super smooth now, the key was adding the reduction in output as it got close to the line, giving it much finer control when it needed it, this has made it super smooth.
I’m interested in your NH T5 Installation. Maybe it’s helpful for my Case IH Farmall 115U Pro installation.
Are you able to post some photos.
Is there also in the orbitrol tank line the transmission lubrication connected (serial)?
What is your experience with the spool size L5 (27l/min) of your prop valve, is L3 (17l/min) more suitable?
I took a few photos but they probably deleted and the tractor is 50km apart. But in 1-2 weeks I’ll be close and I’ll make new ones. In the topic of steering sensors I pasted the steering sensor solution in this tractor.
The hydraulic system looks like the proportional and 6-way valves are located in front of the radiator and the hoses are drawn under the radiator.
Alternatively, I have a list of matched hoses needed to connect the valves to the system.
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Where did you find the parts list for your hydraulic setup? Im planning on swapping my steering motor for hydraulic, on the 6930 (i fancy a new challenge). I imagine i will need the same parts, just longer pipe runs, as i will have to connect to power beyond etc at the rear of the tractor.
What was the website you used? Im also in UK… Yorkshire!
Thanks for your hint regarding mounting steering sensor.
I’m interested in your list of matched hoses, if it’s still available.
Mostly from hydrostar, and then used another online company to make up the hoses, but could just have easily gone to my local hydraulic place and they could have done it all also, just easier to write down all the lengths etc i needed and order it all online one evening when I had time.
Little update to the project,
Wanted to get my dual antenna setup using ethernet rather than WiFi,
A because always concerns me with slight delay / lag using the wireless, and B / more importantly, WiFi always takes 30-60 seconds to re-connect and start talking everytime you start the tractor as the WiFi AP has to reboot, then the connection has to establish, its not a huge issue, but a little annoying, the ethernet to the autosteer board is virtually instant, 3-4 seconds on power up, and data is moving / things are working, so wanted this for the antenna setup also.
At this point there was no ethernet code / support directly, so I used a TTL-UDP server/client module (many available from china, very cheap), configured it for this application, put the ESP into serial output mode, actually entirely disabled the wifi and hotspot for fast boot, just configure using the code, then it just outputs over TTL to the UDP server, and then over ethernet to AOG. RTCM comes back in via the same link.
While I was doing the conversion I also built a new box, using an @Aortner Dual PCB, there was nothing really wrong with my old stack setup, and was very compact, but did make it awkward to work on, access, and also, required mods to the F9P’s by means of soldering wires on, which meant in the event of a failure, you had to mess around modding etc, vs now can just pull one card out, and drop a stock new one in… I havent had one fail, but its always nice to know in the event of a failure, its just a config flash, plug it in and away you go…
For anyone wanting to use ethernet its a solution, although I think @MTZ8302 is now working on a implementing ethernet support directly in the ESP, which would be even better again / one less step, if and when this is working I will just remove the TTL-UDP server and replace with whatever Ethernet module is decided to use with the ESP.
Photo of the new arrangement:
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How were you able to establish the Serial Connection to the SF3000?
Some of the pins on the connector are serial, you need to enable to serial output to on / correct settings inside greenstar though, or using starfire configurator in windows first.
Oh ok, thanks and by the way great Project 