Thanks for the help! No problem connecting? Not disconnected during use?
No I’ve been using it for several months now and on bumpy fields as well and no problems with the connection.
I’m lookin at starting to look at ordering parts for this project and I’ve seen that there is work on a new PCB version. Should I stick with this one for now or?
Thanks for the information!
does anyone know, for what excactls the remote and IMP interface are for?
Turn sensor (if used) should be wired to Remote O and GND.
Work switch (if used) should be wired to Imp O and GND.
Turn Sensor means for hydraulik use => the encoder on the turnwheel?
Yes…
I want to get into the Pcb Thing with Eagle.
Can you say me why there are so many randome pads on the Board for Gnd?
Is there a rule where to put it?
Regards Peter
Al those “pads” are connections from one side gnd to the other side gnd. You see same small holes on real pcb also where + 12 v (mostly bigger areas) is on both sides.
If you use the free version of eagle there might be a restriction of working area of 100 mm by 100 mm.
It is possible to take components away at one side (drag them outside (bottom left) so components is only on the allowed area.
Then it is possible to rearrange the components and put everything back, that is how I made my reduced 100 * 100 mm pcbv2
okay, that makes sense!
can someone tell me what is the best setting when you order an PCB board (thickness and so on)
Regards, Peter
Just the defaults are ok.
You can choose other color but it takes a day longer to produce.
Ok perfekt. Helps me a lot.
I dont know where exactly to put this topic.
But does anyone have some expierence with 24 v converter?
- Is it worth it to have an 24 v converter(motor quicker=> more accurate?)
- Are i running into hat Problems when i put the 24v converter in a 150x150x60 mm Box closed?
p.s let me know if there is a chat with Simular questions.
Regards, Peter
I’m using the 24v converter with the phidgets motor and I’ve also tried just 12v. When on 12v the motor can’t run fast enough for a Uturn, but on the track it’s OK. My converter doesn’t run warm so I wouldn’t be afraid to put it in a box.
john
I am interested in your pcb if it’s not too late .I would pay the post
thank
bruno
Hello, will be there a PCB Version 3 soon?
My first try at this turned out well. I am now looking to build another with some changes and would like to put the v2 board and dual F9P ESP board and the 12 to 24 V all in one box. I really would like to use a slotted box but am having a hard time finding one that will fit the boards and give me space to put the doubler in . Can you buy the PCB board material that I can cut to size that will fit the box I want and then I will use standoffs to attache the actual boards. or can I change the size of the boards, to fit the box that I order, without messing anything up when I order more v2 and dual f9p boards? Which is the better way to go?
You may use sheet aluminium or plastic instead of PCB board material.
Quick question about the boards
What are the three small controllers that say ok 1,2,3
And what are the two black modules below the capacitors
If you look at all the pictures in the support folder, you should be able to find them. Check the parts list too.
But use 5 minutes on this video from Brian Isolated Switches on PCB - YouTube to learn more about the 4n33 which is the name of OK 1 to 3 (and also about proximity sensor)
It must be the 7805 or also named 78xx you think of, they are voltage regulators 12v down to 5 v