I was using the second USB as it allows for the main USB to be plugged into the computer on U-center at the same time as outputting info to the pi. I also read/saw on a video somewhere that said being able to set the baud rate to 115200 was preferable for transmitting the data.
I never tried the rear USB to output RTCM, so there may be a trick I don’t know. At least I can say this : the rear USB is made to connect to a xbee or simplertk2blite board plugged in the xbee headers. It uses a UART to USB adapter (FTDI) to talk to these boards. What you want to do is use this USB plug and converter to talk to the F9P on board. So I’s say you need jumper wires to connect the F9P UART pins to the FTDI chip UART pins. However, I don’t find the headers pinout anywhere, so I can’t help you much more
EDIT : hehe, got it : simpleRTK2B hack#2: unbrick ZED-F9P/use UART1 via USB - ArduSimple
Perfect, that’s worked great.
I don’t seem to have a fix antenna location showing yet though.
Edit, it’s working 100% now, thank you so much for your help
You still don’t have the 1005 message in the list 
so RTK2GO can’t display your coordinates
Also, no need to send 1074 AND 1077 at the same time, just choose one. These two have the same purpose (I think 1077 is a bit more complete though). The same applies to 1084, 1094, 1124
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I have a jumper wire going between the tx and rx pins which is how you get the UART2 to work though the second USB. I followed this video here which shows you how to do it. I wonder if its possibly the UART1 or I2C which is still trying to work as well but I should have disable them. I might quickly see if it works using the first usb as it should just be a different tty connection to the pi.
This article from ardusimple looks like what you’re doing. I never tried that, so if this doesn’t work I can’t do much more. Maybe someone else did this here and could help
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Just tried using the main USB on the board, str2str is sending data to rtk2go the same but its still not parsing it
Yep thats the one!
Dumb question, but did you update tour firmware ?
Also @GaryB, since you have a fresh and working configuration could you share it here ? (see here page 62)
Yeah I updated my firmware to 1.13 yesterday on my base station board. I then configured it using the default base configuration file from ublox then tweaked a few settings mainly to do with outputting rtcm to the USB as well as uart 2 and setting up the survey in to 30 seconds and 15m (to get a really quick test fix)
I’ve tried using strsvr (using the main USB) on my PC to send the stream to rtk2go as well, but I’m still having the same issue where it says that it’s not parsing the data stream. It seems as though there is an issue with the data that is being stream itself but I’m not sure what is up with it. I’m wondering if its an issue with my f9p that I just haven’t figured out.
Another unusual thing is that I cant set the in/out protocol of the I2C to 0. If I do it disconnects my F9P from u-center for a second then reconnects
It also seems that my simplertk2b becomes unresponsive to u-centre if I set the USB protocol to only RTCM out. I can’t even do a cold start but if I unplug and replug in the board it seems to revert back and work?
What do you mean “unresponsive” ? If you mean there are no satellites shown anymore, that’s normal : this data comes from NMEA messages, which you disabled.
However, there is a risk that your board becomes “bricked”, which means because you disabled too much communication protocols, you can’t access the F9P anymore with U-center. It may be what happens. Though, you probably didn’t send the modifications to the F9P to make them permanent (explained here, step 4). I never bricked my F9P, so I can’t tell much more though
By unresponsive I mean I still receive data stream but I cant send any commands to the board to change the output protocol. Yeah, I’ve not saved the configuration when its done that to try to avoid bricking the board. Its also doing some weird things, so I reverted back to FW1.11 and the original config the board came with. Doing this allowed me to turn the I2C protocol off without disconnecting from U-center for a second or 2. It also now will not display time after completing a survey in, even though I have set up the RTCM message for the UART and USB ports.
Make sure to leave UBX protocol enabled for USB In & Out otherwise you cannot access the F9P via u-center to make changes! There are exceptions, such as if you have enabled UBX on other ports for configuration.
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Thanks for the tip! Didn’t cross my mind to leave that enabled to communicate with it (Yet its obvious!)
Still having issues streaming to rtk2go, and now seem to get a frequent IP address ban as well which is probably due to the number of disconnections (I haven’t left it running and failing to connect continuously) which I have contacted them about. Over local TCP the rtcm messages seem to be correct and the rover is getting a successful fix. I’ve checked the simpleRTK2b output and the port is purely putting out rtcm data, messages 1005, 1074, 1084, 1094 and 1230 at a baud rate of 115200. The shell command I am using is (With my actual personal mountpoint password):
rtkscript/str2str -in serial://ttyUSB0:115200:8:n:1 -out ntrips://:PASSWORD@rtk2go.com:2101/PyAgri
I also tried to use strsvr on my PC to send the data stream to rtk2go but this also failed mainly by failed connections. Still lost as to why it won’t work!
Hi
I am still running my setup on the first post without any issue.
To send to rtk2go with this setup put CFG-PRT: USB out to RTCM3 only
You will not see the sats in u-center but that’s ok.
Another good thing is to set the UBX-CFG-TMODE3 : to fixed with the base coordinate.
I am still on fw 1.12.
There is maybe an issue with your RTK2Go inscription? I think there is something when subscribing about parsing? Not sure about this.
Edit: If you brick your SimpleRTK2B the solution is here:
Im finish with my autosteer PCB, and want to order simpleRTK2B. Should I order unconfigured or configured?
One for rtk base using raspberry like you, and one for the rover.
It hardly matters, you can download configurations and do that yourself. I’d buy whatever is cheapest unless they have a configuration kit with exactly what you want but as they release firmware updates it seems like the recommended configuration changes.
Thanks!