Totally missed that, thanks, seems obvious now.
edit Now I know why, all the photos I’ve seen must be showing an older design, even the github readme shows a single board centered.
@GoRoNb is your github up to date with your latest pcb design?
2nd edit I’ve been thinking GoRoNb’s 2nd design was an update to the first but I now realize it’s an almost completely new design.
The teensy 4.1 board is the next on my build list, very excited about its development.
waiting on the code to be combined for autosteer and gps. once its running we have a source to manufacture them complete in an enclosure with mating connectors. Some on the forum are planning to keep stock available in several countries.
That’s the hope anyway
Awesome plan, will reduce the barrier to broader implementation.
I am just interested in the board without connectors though, I already use a single deutsch dtm 12 pin connector for the V2 motor steer harnesses. Makes removal and install a breeze with only one plug + USB.
Can we move this conversation to:
Next step for SMD PCB: Project for an all-in-one compact PCB
Or could the admin combine the two posts.
PotatoFarmer, I am currently using the 12 pin Deutsch as well, but GoRoNb wants to use the connector on the other thread. Omnimate. I looked at it, and really like it. A lot like the Deutsch but it cams for disconnect. The Deutsch nearly rips the side of my box out when I disconnect. I think the Omnimate will be a good upgrade.
i’m complete new here and like to build autosteer on me traktor
what i don’t find about the steering motor torque and speed
need the motor (planetair) reductor ? reduction factor from motor to steeringweel
i have a motor (ugfmed-03sri21) 27v 80W no reductor can that work with the board ? with timingbelt
dutch people here around ?
mechanical i don’t have any problem but i need a little help for the software and also for ordering of the board its so complicated
This pcb is being updated at the moment, and I havent ever ordered one.
I am using a hydraulic valve to steer. There should be multiple posts that can answer your question though
Use the search ( magnifying Glass at top right) type: phidget gear
Im dutch, feel free to ask anything.
There are no known bugs to the design right now - so you may order it at the PCB manufacturer you like. But I removed the USB charging feature; that needs a more complicated approach. The main problem is the availability of the electronic components right now, especially the H driver. It’s really a nightmare - in the whole industry…
it look like the pcb board is at the moment not a good thing because of the availability of the components
i order already ardusimple startkit basic
i plan to order also the Arduino Nano 33 BLE Sense with headers or is it better to buy it seperatly a bno055 and an arduino nano
is there a need for a inclinometer if you have the 9-axis compass ?
can you work with 2 “ibt_2” in parrallel if the curent is to high for one ?will place an hydrolic pump parrallel on the steering piston and then is 24v 40A maybe not powerfull enogh
i’m working on this project and follow a bit the presentation of karel de waele 21-28/1/2020
thats also explenation in dutch and thats more comfortable
Quite some manual he made for version 4 last year.
But remember today AOG version 5 and above, no longer use bno055 or mma.
Instead it use bno085 or cmps14
The new manual and schematics are in support folder together with v5 download (you find it same place as program download )
bno080 /85 is very stable, even the Ali express ones
about the IBT2: Yes, you can mount several drivers in parallel. You can also use the two channels of one board as one. But anyway you’ll have to modify the China boards by adding thermally conductive pads between heatsink and board.
what do you mean ? you have to isolate the heatsink when you use more than one ? i see the ibt2 hat a price of 3 to 4 € at aliexpresss thats cheap
I took off the heatsink and added computer heat paste between heatsink and ibt_2.
THERE were nothing there on mine, and heatzink didn’t even fit well.
That is why
heb jij een werkende aog op je traktor staan ?
ik wil werken met een olie pomp parrallel op de stuurcylinder enig idee of het kan werken ?
needed Google for the translation of the 2nd sentence…
I personally have no experience with hydraulic control, so I’ll have to let the others answer.
Just from the electrical point of view, a hydraulic pump will need very high currents, so that an external motor driver next to motor and battery and suitable wiring is absolutly necessary.
And please mind safety issues if you modify the hydraulic steering.
Nl:
Als je niet teveel in je cabine wil prutsen met een stuurmotor zou ik toch voor een ventielblok gaan, zoals hierboven ook gezegd heb je dan wel een hele zware elektromotor nodig om die pomp aan te drijven.
En:
If you dont want to mess around in the cab i would go for proportional valves like said above the pump would need quite a lot of power.