Steering valve problems with class 836 rz

Hi, I posted a while ago with a similar problem, I have fitted a vickers hydraulic auto steer valve running two pipes from the orbital to the back of the tractor where the valve sits, and two pipes running back to the cylinders. I connected the P and T directly to two spare ports where the rear remote pipes go in, the P port was a cap that I removed and replaced with a pipe, the return line was a pipe that was already there. The LS line goes straight to a shuttle valve which I put in place which goes between the front suspension valve block pipe and the remote valves LS line which also has what looks like a shuttle valve or a t piece for the two to operate. I’ve made sure the C (common) port heads directly towards the pump.

Everything is as it should be but I have an issue with the hydraulics as they sound like they stoked up longer than they should be, so I put a check valve coming from my auto steer valve LS port to make sure pressure isn’t going back through it and it seemed fixed the problem, although when I came to using the auto steer I could get barely any pressure/flow and the steering was very slow, took the check valve off and the auto steer worked fine again, but again hydraulics sounded like they were stoked up for too long.

The check valve I fitted is rated at 1bar with a spring, is that too much, maybe worth taking the spring out? any help would be appreciated I think I’m missing something!

Just thought I’d also add that the check valve is 1/4” is that sufficient enough for the Ls line?

1/4 would be enough for LS.

Maybe you should draw a schematic of you installation, it would be easier to understand.
I have hard time to figure out how your valve is connected.

Sorry just got round to drawing a basic schematic hope it makes sense, I’ve only drawn the port lines none of the steering lines just so it gives an idea

as you can see without the added shuttle valve the suspension valve Ls went straight to the current shuttle valve (although I’m not sure if its just a standard t piece its difficult to tell)

That diagram looks correct for the plumbing. Can you give more details of the autosteer valve? We need to know how this works.
If it’s like your diagram there is no way for the ls line to drain to tank when the valve is in neutral hense why the pump stays on pressure for some time until the ls leaks down.

The valve in the schematic is wrong but only made it for the plumbing, it’s an Eaton vickers some pictures below…
I’m guessing it has a drain built in, another thing to note is that the pump seems to be pressurised when the autosteer valve isn’t even in use?

Does anybody have experience with this valve? I think there may be pressure on the Ls line from it and it isn’t draining. Out of all the manuals I can find online this one is different so I can’t find any info on any drain orifice I need to install or any plugs that need to be removed. Will I need to try and drain the Ls myself with a homemade orifice and separate drain to tank?