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Download and install AgOpenGPS on a Windows computer. See this Downloading AgOpenGPS section on the specifics or watch this quick video for beginners.
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When first running the program you will find that it is in simulator mode. Before you can play around in the simulator you’ll have to start a field. Click the pen icon in the lower right hand corner of the screen.
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Now that your field is named it’s time to create a boundary. You’ll find this under the pen icon as well. You can either record a boundary using the sim or load a .kml file you created from Google Earth. You’ll notice that outer boundary is filled in by default. This is a good place to start. You can think of the outer boundary as a physical barrier around a real field that you don’t want any of your farm equipment to hit. To create this boundary in the sim, pick which side of the implement you would like to use as the outside edge then click record. You will have to use the sliders on the bottom left of the guidance display to control the speed and steering angle or use the arrow keys on your keyboard. Click stop when done.
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Now that you have your field boundary in place try to set up your vehicle. You’ll find this under the gear icon. Please measure your tractor accurately as your measurements greatly affect the calculations that AgOpenGPS makes to control steering etc. Should you decide to move beyond the sim in the future. A lot of these measurements can be found in an owners manual. Save your vehicle once completed, this is found under the file drop down menu at the top left hand corner of the screen.
Hello guys. I am a farmer from Lithuania and my interesting AGopenGPS. But i nothing to find from i can buy pcb autosteer?
You almost found it 
the next pcb version 2 is on the way. i hope it comes with a pretty box with place for motorcontroller and f9p and 12 to 24 v converter. all soldered and ready…
if anybody in europe have interrest please use this form. you get information after it is ready.
https://www.autosteer.cc/produkt-kategorie/elektronik-teile/
Or go here and make it yourself.
Also remember to download support folders and program to learn more. See link in the top post in this thread.
Thank you Larsvest.
Hi,
Quick question, i ordered a ride high senor but now i see it is a 2 pin plug. Is that going to work? how do i wire it to the pcb, one wire to the 5v and one on the high?
thanks
You don’t tell which sensor you got(there are many ride high sensors). But with only 2 pins, it could be a ordinary potentiometer and not hall sensor type. So you can measure ohm between pins and see if it changes when turning arm on sensor. If it is a potentiometer then it doesn’t matter which pin you put 5v, the WAS in/high
sorry this is the sensor,
except when I ordered it it was $31.70, that kinda why I was worried it might not work, thought maybe I cheeped out and ordered a bad one.
the other night I did try to ohm it out but didnt see much. I had one of my young boys helping me, I will try it again.
Probably nothing wrong with it. You should write them an email and ask what/how those 2 pins/blades are used(Document and support)
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-100524-927-009.aspx?origin=keyword
Turns out this angle sensor uses an inductive coil. So it measures response time to read the signal.
The one prong is low referance and the other prong is signal.
I tried putting the low prong to the low on the pcb and the signal to the high, but it doesn’t seem to read anything.
I will probably just order a different one. Unless some one know what I can do to make it work.
I also realized that I don’t have the ads1115 chip in yet. (I missed it on the order)
So I guess I can’t read the w.a.s with out it?
Hello. I am from Russia, a few months ago I became interested in AOG. Thank you very much to everyone who created and is engaged in this project. I have great difficulties with translation. Google Translate is a very good thing, but it translates some terms as “haystack” or “building material”. Therefore, I immediately ask your forgiveness for many things that I do not understand. I would be very grateful for your help.
I made a simulator and figured out how to set up the electric steering wheel motor. Then I moved this simulator to a tractor and tried it on the training ground. I get a sure FIX on the GPS. I am about 1 kilometer from the base station. The tractor goes straight and keeps the line from passageway to passageway. I was very happy that I had a bunch of GPS-motor running. But when I measured the distance between the aisles, I was sad. The distance between the aisles ranges from 50 centimeters to 150 centimeters. The speed of the tractor did not exceed 9 kilometers per hour. What did I set up wrong? I can see the MMA8452 working in the arduino code. When I tilt the board to the right, I have positive values. When I tilt it to the left, I have negative data. How can I see BNO055 working? Why does the tractor yaw from side to side when installing the “Stanle”? When installed, “Pure P” behaves well. Rides adequately. When playing in the simulator, it was the opposite. What accuracy can I really get in the pass-to-pass field without BNO055? Thanks.
It looks to me like your problem is the wheel angle sensor. If it isn’t zeroed correctly you still drive a nice straight line but not exactly where you are supposed to be. It will drive off the line on one side or the other.
I went all last year without a bno55 just using fix to fix for heading and I thought it drove extremely well.
Maybe you’re right. Tell me how to do this? The voltage for straight wheels is 2.4 volts. I think this is normal.
When I go straight, I see a shift in one of the sides of about 20 centimeters. It’s always about the same. It does not rotate around the zero position. And it turns about 40-20-0. Then it goes back to 20.
@Siberian Getting the wheel angle sensor set right for me was a matter of trial and error. My first attempt at installation was out enough that the software couldn’t correct it (with the slider). It just took a little adjustment of my sensor mount to get it physically centred better. Once it was set correctly it worked like a charm.
Bwatts, thank you for the tip. I followed the same path as you. I also shifted the mounting of the sensor to one side. Now the slider “Wheel Angle Sensor Zero” is around 74.
Tell me you have the same “noises” coming from the wheel sensor at the average position of the wheels. When the wheels are turned, there is no such distortion. Maybe this is due to the absence of the R7 C4 chain. I use a “spider” board instead - a mock-up assembly.
“distance” between white lines shift automatic. In your first picture it is probably 1 degree between lines and in second I think it is 0.1 degree between them. That is why you see the noise better in second picture.
Noise probably comes from power supply, so capacitors helps.
What kind of WAS do you use, hall angle sensor or a potentiometer?