If you go the dual antenna route ZED-F9P RTK InCase PIN GNSS receiver board with SMA Base or Rover - Eltehs GNSS OEM Store is cheaper than ardusimple!
They also have one with usb plug already mounted ZED-F9P RTK GNSS receiver board with SMA Base or Rover - Eltehs GNSS OEM Store
Lately I’ve had all kinds of mechanical reliability issues with USB ports. I’m starting to think I’m either cursed or USB just sucks as far as a reliable interface goes. On my laptop, bouncing around in a tractor with various things attached to it has now rendered 2 of my 3 USB ports mostly inoperative. Pretty sure a connection is cracked from mechanical stress on the motherboard. Then I’ve had 3 different micro usb cords stop making good connection in devices. Also had a usb extension cable I was using that won’t connect reliably anymore if the cord plugged into it wiggles even slightly.
And finally just now I found one of my Arduinos (not an Uno, but a more expensive Due) had the micro USB plug peel up off the board a bit, causing it to lose the ground connection. Turns out it was a cold solder joint that broke free. I soldered it back down with good old lead solder.
After seeing this on a professionally-soldered and manufactured board, I don’t think I’ll ever touch lead-free solder! Especially on a board in a tractor. Anyway, just venting.
I do like the ethernet connection for sure.
Well, I was in IT for 15 years before I came back to farming. I had a love/hate relationship with ethernet. Whoever designed the RJ45 system was sheer genius. And simultaneously be cursed for having fragile locking tabs that break off so easily!
That said, I was recently introduced to industrial ethernet connectors called M12.
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=industrial+ethernet+m12
Except if the pins ever bend…
Be careful of reverse supply polarity.
It burns here ! But can be easily repair with a wire . And good for me no other damage.
Had a similiar problem, once i switched on the button it started burning. Though I am not sure why. What was your solution?!
reverse supply polarity !!!
Where exactly should I do that?
Really ? take a voltmeter and check if 12V and GND are good place .
You must be sure battery + goes to +12 v battery in on the PCB board
I think so, but will check it tomorrow. Sorry for not being an expert at this at all. Just noted that the diodes D2 & D3 are not correctly soldered. I think they need to bee flipped the other way round.
Thanks for helping
It’s better to check twice everything before powering … And little advise , take 12v for cytron on 12Vout of PCB, it’s more safe.
Yes they must be flipped, you can see how by mounting white line of diode over white line in symbol on pcb. D2 is not harmed at all but D3 could smoke when flipped as you mention, when power is correct mounted. Check if your cupper line between D3 and on/off connector is burnt away as Tooki show in picture.
Two of the optocouplers looks like they are backwards.
Pcb to cytron wires are wrong too. Red one should be removed and white and yellow goes wrong, unless you changed the pinmapping in ino-file.
So besides the flipped diodes we had some more issues with the little green connectors for the Wheel Angle Sensor and the Motor Driver. we desoldered them an soldered the wires directly to the PCB. Now everything works just fine. Thanks for having a look at that first soldering masterpiece for myself.
With the digi-key delivery came two different relais. Both seem to work. But what are they really for?
Nice work, thanks for sharing the video! Doesn’t take much to sand off the edge to get it to fit in the case, if you have the socket for the relay pushed further from the edge the assembly fits.
Here is the tip, how to make perfect soldering
I have started assembling my box and have it setup as in the picture. I am using the MA8452 for heading. I know you can switch the x and y axis, but was wondering it the arrows on the board are showing the direction for forward. I have the orientation of the board with the direction of the arrows in the picture, but would like the box to be oriented so that forward on the tractor would be the yellow arrow. Do I have to be moving forward in the direction of one of the x or y arrows or is that just showing the axis it is running on? Also using NTRIP, to minimize amount of data used what would be the minimum GGA interval (sec) needed to maintain RTK?
The MMA will only provide roll… as you can select the right axis and invert, it doesn’t really matter. For heading Corrections you need a BNO or better a Tinkerforge IMU Brick V2.0. Also that one doesn’t matter.
For your ntrip profile, do you use a VRS network? Then a GGA send of 10/15 sec is enough…