So besides the flipped diodes we had some more issues with the little green connectors for the Wheel Angle Sensor and the Motor Driver. we desoldered them an soldered the wires directly to the PCB. Now everything works just fine. Thanks for having a look at that first soldering masterpiece for myself.
With the digi-key delivery came two different relais. Both seem to work. But what are they really for?
Nice work, thanks for sharing the video! Doesnât take much to sand off the edge to get it to fit in the case, if you have the socket for the relay pushed further from the edge the assembly fits.
Here is the tip, how to make perfect soldering
I have started assembling my box and have it setup as in the picture. I am using the MA8452 for heading. I know you can switch the x and y axis, but was wondering it the arrows on the board are showing the direction for forward. I have the orientation of the board with the direction of the arrows in the picture, but would like the box to be oriented so that forward on the tractor would be the yellow arrow. Do I have to be moving forward in the direction of one of the x or y arrows or is that just showing the axis it is running on? Also using NTRIP, to minimize amount of data used what would be the minimum GGA interval (sec) needed to maintain RTK?
The MMA will only provide roll⌠as you can select the right axis and invert, it doesnât really matter. For heading Corrections you need a BNO or better a Tinkerforge IMU Brick V2.0. Also that one doesnât matter.
For your ntrip profile, do you use a VRS network? Then a GGA send of 10/15 sec is enoughâŚ
Thanks for the quick response. I thought I read that you really do not need the BNO or IMU brick, do I really need the heading then?? I may have misinterpreted some posts. Also using the Ohio department of transportation VRS system for RTK. will set to 15 seconds. Thanks
rtk fix to fix calculates a very good heading in most situations. Thats all Ive used for a couple years. I will try the brick v2.0 this year though
I am testing on bench, WAS is working, mma is sending reading, gps is getting rtk fix. The only thing I would like to test is the motor, is there any way to test without actually being hook to tractor and moving? I thought I saw a video showing the motor direction movement on desk top test,
If you switch to simulation mode you can test steer motor on bench. Another option is to go to steer settings and hit drive button. Make sure you have steer switch on or at least use a jumper wire. WAS cant be at end of stroke and you have to add proportional gain as default is 0.
Where on the PCB v2 would you connect a relay to power off the phidgets motor completely when not engaged? It would make it easier to turn the steering wheel when the motorâs not breaking.
You could use two of the relays on a board like this one. Connect to l_en/r_en out pin. Different pin depending on whether you use ibt_2 or cytron,as shown in the schematic that can be found in the downloaded support folder
This is exactly what I did! Thanks for the tip. Where do you repair with wire? On/off to d3?
I am starting to design my second box. I am planning on this one to be placed under the seat and have remote buttons on counsel for main power on/off and work switch. I am trying to keep it as small as possible and have as few connectors as possible on box. My two button switches with lights have 4 wires each, two for switch and two for the light. I would like to use a 12 pin connector as shown in picture that would be used for both button switches and the WAS for a total of 11 wires. Does any see an issue with using this 12 pin connector? any type of interference? Also what would be the smallest wire I could use 16,or 18 AWG, With my WAS I am using the 22 AWG wire in the parts list, but not sure of amps in the two switches would not believe it to be too much. Thanks
Do your 2 switches just trigger the STEER and IMP optocouplers? If yes, that is a very low current, 22 AWG should be fine.
You can use 22awg for all signals and LEDs and for starting relays, only for power supply and motor do not use conductor less than 1.5mm2 or not more than 16awg
Great tips, only things that had me guessing was putting short tail with the bigger internals on the LED towards ground.
Worst part of assembly was, opening and discarding all of the digi-key bags. Now to see if the smoke stays in it.