Tying into Factory 8120 Case Steer Valve

Ok, that makes more sense, I didn’t realize pin 10 had any power output, I thought it just read the state of sensors! Upon trying that again I can get the sensor to power on and appear to function(there’s a light on the sensor that goes on and off as the fingers go by the sensor)with pin 10 and ground but it doesn’t register as a count in Aog. I tried shorting pin to ground directly on the board and that does disengage the auto steer. I bought books for our combines and looked up the schematic for the steering wheel sensor and it appears that off of the ground pin of the sensor it branches off and goes through a potentiometer, presumably to pull it low and get it’s reading on a different input. Obviously it is a little different here since we’re powering the sensor with the pin it’s reading from(pin 10) but do you think if I put a high ohm resistor between ground and pin 10 it would replicate that factory setup?

That would just pull it low all the time though so that wouldn’t work. So I’m not sure what kind of sensor this is exactly, the finger wheel is definitely slightly magnetic. But now that I know how pin 10 works it shouldn’t be a big deal to just get a sensor to go in its place!

Ok , could be that your sensor have som resistense even when supposed to be closed (short circuit)
Try to measure how many ohm there is between the two pins of your sensor, both with tooth in front of it and with gap in front of it.

If you measure some resistance, then pin 10 probably does not go low enough to make a count.
You could help that situation by having a constant resistor in parallel to your sensor (more resistance than allowing a count to happen, but as little/small resistance as possible) making the combined resistance do a count.

Just to be sure, you have disconnected the old 7 V supply from your sensor?

Does not need to be magnetic, we have proximity sensors too😀

Ok, I will check the resistance this afternoon! Yes I have it completely disconnected from the factory harness so shouldn’t have to worry about stray voltage!

Do you have a recommendation for a proximity sensor that will work with 3.3v? I have one but it won’t power up with less than 6v and that seems like that is all I am able to find when I search online :man_shrugging:

Why not just use the one you have , feed it with 12 V, I bet the signal wire if it is a NPN proximity sensor, then will be direct to GND each time a tooth passes.
If so, connect that signal wire direct to pin 10

Mine is a 3 wire and I am pretty sure it passed the input power onto the signal wire when I tested it on the bench I thought, I’ll test it again..

Mine does pass the voltage onto the signal wire. Just double checked it. It must be a PNP, I’ll order and NPN and see how that works!

NPN proximity switch does work!

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