Mounting to the hub eliminates Ackermann effect.
WAS with Ackermann steering - #3 by Kaupoi
As WAS Iām using Honeywell RTY90LVEAX.
A problem you may have with this setup @ThomasM is that the ram is highly likely to be free to rotate, twisting your linkage.
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Hello everyone,
I will give you some news about my installation. I finally 
installed the sensor this way. I plan to install a kind of roof over the WAS to avoid earth splashes
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I wonder how watertight the sensor axle seals are. Would it make any difference if the sensor axle was pointing up or down? In the car the sensor axle is horizontal anyway, not possible as a WAS.
No idea. Iām going to make a protection against earth splashes. But against the dust I will see with use. and to clean the tractor I will dismantle this sensor
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I couldnĀ“t find any good picture (of all parts) online of the bracket that Hardi Kverneland and others use. But for inspiration on how to make a strong lever for a sensor, look at page 12 to 14 in this SBG manual.
file:///C:/Users/Lars/Downloads/Installation%20Manual%20-%20SBGuidance%20Onland%20Plough%20-%20EN.pdf
I would think, looking at them, these sensors are pretty good at keeping out water. Under a wheel arch I would think there are strong air currents in lots of directions.
Mine is actually horizontal and retains itās full LR linkage.
The connector that fits these is available on ebay.
Do both of these work equally well @Kaupoi ?
Need to come up with a mount on my 6630, am using the landrover sensor, Just trying to get my head around the ackerman effect, and what I need to aim to keep the same lengths / angles to make it work the bestā¦Should the length of both arms always ideally be the same? IE from sensor pivot to end of rod, and king pin to end of rod?
Both work well, but 6630 is a bit better. Linkage should be made the way that almost whole range of was is used.
I drew out the sensor and itās arms on a cad package. Could just as easily have done it on paper. Circles at each pivot to show possible movement. I drew both extremities of itās measurement and also centre position. I then drew a line with a centre mark to represent the steer ram travel. This could then be moved around the drawing so that the centre and both ends landed on the arm arcs.
This probably doesnāt make much sense but Iāll try to post my diagram. It might help explain and might help someone. I didnāt draw it with the intention of it being useful to others!
Sensor pivot is the sensor itself. Knuckle is self explanatory. The suffix letter is it in itās left, centre or right position. The green circles are the swing of the sensorās steel arm. The red line is the length of the ram travel with travel centre marked. Basically I moved the red line around so the left end sat on the left position circle, the centre position sat on the centre circle and the right position sat on the right circle. On top of all that I tried to make sure the knuckle angle deflection is reasonably balanced L-R. The measurements told me where to fit my sensor in relation to the ram travel (Red Line). Itās not geometrically perfect but itās not far off and it works just fine with AOG.
Guys, what about retrofitting the AL150206 JD sensor as described starting page #18 of this manual? http://amsretrofit.deere.com/johndeere/retrofit/_www/files/pdf2/pfp11201_19_28sep114.pdf
Is it worth the money getting the components from the JD dealer? At first glance it would seem easier even if not cost effective ā¦ Worth mentioning however that I have found no datasheet for the AL150206 WAS or any data about AgOpenGps compatibility specifically if the output is in V or mA and needs to be converted.
Would certainly be an option, what is the cost of all those parts for angle sensor? Probably not actually to sillyā¦ I did consider it, and then just decided it would likely end up being pretty expensive vs the 20 quid land rover sensor! But would certainly be much better protect etc. I imagine the sensor will be suitable, 0-5v, as most of deeres feedback sensors are this wayā¦
I got all the parts from jd for my 6330 to fit factory WAS EXCEPT the kingpin with hole down through the middle. It was expensive. Im going to try machine on lathe.
I am very interested to see the end result. If you can also quantify the total cost, it can be used by others 
No problem at JD. I am installing the standard RTY Honneywel. I drill a 6 mm hole in the bearing pin on a lathe, a 16mm deep 24mm deep recess on the top, I use a 5mm long 80mm screw as a drive. After assembling the bearing cover with the drilled hole, I drill a 4mm hole which I thread M5. To get a hole in the axis, I wrap the drill with insulating tape so that it is tight in the 6mm pin hole.
The screw head is ground square and connected to the sensor through a printed clutch. Virtually no cost, just a little work.
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Is there a grease nipple on the pin? I was thinking of the same kind of solution on a Carraro front axle but that has the grease drilling running in the middle, any ideas how to work around that?
I had a carraro in a case magnum with calamites in the middle. I drilled a 4mm hole horizontally in the cover of the pin so that it connects to the center where the sensor axis is and the calamite is ready. In JD, the grease nipples in this photo were not provided at the factory.
Do you have more pictures of the inside ? or a drawing ?
Thx
