That would work. Why is the I2C pins on the amp seal not an option?
The only reason I suggested a separate microcontroller for machine control was for situations in which you would create a complete electronic control of your remotes. Then you would need a lot more than just a shift register to control it. And the main reason is so you can have it on standby 100% of the time, even when the key is off, to make it truly transparent. But simple outputs are what you need most of the time anyways.
You don’t have the I2C pins available on the current ampseal connector. But I2C might actually allow you to have the Teensy + Arduino manage the same I/O expander.
I was mistaken. Makes sense now. Another suggestion I have would be to run software I2C on the ampseal pins. Wouldn’t really take much more than running shift registers and is actually very easy to implement.
Here’s my current code (Just playing with the 3 pins.) Still needs testing in simulator. The timer parts I'm not fully confi… · gunicsba/AgOpenGPS_Boards@24b7219 · GitHub
This should be sufficient for most of our tractors, except the one that does the spraying / planting.
We ended up redoing the integration but this is what we ran in the tractors for now: GitHub - gunicsba/AgOpenGPS_Boards at hydliftv2
It was tested in 4 tractors so far and works fine everywhere.
Is there a wiring diagram of some sort that I could follow to get the lift function working on our mf6265? I saw
The diagram in the link above had MF there, but I didn’t quite understand it and I am not sure if mine has type 1 or type 2 switch. And how and where I should copy the code?
My brother was wiring the tractors and have no picture of any of the 3… Basically he went with this logic:
Then we add a voltage regulator for the relay board to have 5V.
And pull the trigger to ground via the AIO pins.
Is aog sending a continuous signal when lifting? and from which pin I should get the signal in ampseal? I haven’t looked at the switch yet but I guess either one relay switcing from down position to up wire and back could do the job if it is the type that stays in up position while getting signal and when signal is cut switches back to down. If aog or teensy is not sending continuous signal I guess I need a relay that keeps whichever position the signal leaves it at and then another switch that I can choose between aog and manual control. I will look at the switch soon and maybe make a simple scetch drawing of the wiring.
Use a relay board from aliexpress the 2 pins shoud operate in 2 modes:
User4 = 1 → when lifted we’ll lift and keep it up until lowered then use the other pin to keep it down.
User4 = 2 → lift for N sec, then turn off, lower for N sec then turn off.
(User4 is a parameter on the hydraulic config screen of AgOpenGPS)
Invert relay can be used to invert the relay state. (by default we pull it high as it is activated by connecting it to ground)
Work switch off disables it.
//These are the pins available on the AIO boards AMPSEAL:
#define HYDRAULIC_LIFT_OR_UP 26 //A12 was: Hyd_up Used to lift up the hydraulics
#define HYDRAULIC_LOWER_OR_DOWN 27//A13 was: Hyd_down Used to lower the hydraulics
#define HYDRAULIC_TRAMLINE 38 //A14
Well it wasn’t as simple switch as I expected and there seems to be ELC unit behind. Is it likely to result in error in ELC if I put relays in the wirings?
This small black side button is interesting, it lowers the linkage fast when pushed and releases it back up when released, it would probably be the simplest one to use as it has only two wires going in it.
Well one of the pins gets activated when you want the implement to be down. So a relay can be put on that.
I’d mesure how the signal changes when you want to lift from lowered.
What’s the pinout on the 4 pin switch? How does it switch?
My brother says that if you have your switch on lowered position but you “cut” the wire it automatically raises it. So his way of wiring is simply having the relay to cut the lowering wire which tricks the computer to lift the rear up.
Don’t know if this helps any but this is the wiring diagram for the switch no. 16 no. 17 is the “quick lowering” for ploughing and no. 19 is potentiometer for depth control. The F and G in the plug (M) are for raising and lowering
could it be that on switch 16 the 4 , 10 , 2 ,3 correspond to the 4 legs of the switch?
2 feels like ground
2 - 4 → 350 ohm
2 -10 → 330+220 → 550ohm (which goes to the quick lower that has another 460 ohm? )
How about we add 13ohm resistor between 2 - 6 and see if it lifts instead of lower?
That is really helpful, but again shows it’s more complicated than I thought and it would need to be if they didn’t want to sell these for +50€ prices. What happens at the 19 potentiometer? Does it affect the ohms of the circuits or could its measurement determine whether its going down or up? Is there signal coming through there from ELC bypassing the switch? Should I put the relay between 19 and 16 or M and N or does it matter at all?
Not quite sure but my guess is that 19 can regulate the voltage and then the computer has parameters to what position the lift would need to be according to the computer
Thank you, this explains some of the measurement I got. However my switch has different pinout numbers and it behaves strangely if there is only resistors in there? It has some resistance between all of the pins but when powered it has only momentary resistance like of there is a relay disconnecting all of the pins. However there is voltage differences between all the pins. I will put my measurements below and continue measuring.
4=gnd
Power off:
6-5=242ohm always
5-4=214 ohm always
6-4=69,8ohm always
7-4=356
7-5=147
7-6=383
7-8=440/0
8-4=768
8-5=576
8-6=790
Power on:
6-5=
Momentary around 1600ohm otherwise 0 ohm but
7,24V@down
6,58V@neutral
4,97V@up
5-4
momentary 1300-1900ohm
2,23V@down
2,89V@neutral
4,5V@up
6-4
9,48V always
I guess 6=G/4 in your drawing.
7&8 are the wires going to the black button. I will measure them later more.
Now when I think about it. It seems like the voltage goin back on wire E or 5/2 would be the determining factor of the height anyway. So I will try if just pulling the connector of will do the trick or do I still need that 4,9/5V going through.
I’m assuming the computer will need the voltage from the depth control in order to function… Might throw a fault code if it doesn’t get a voltage that’s in between the parameters
