Thank for answer. Exactly it was about a photo with a view of the application.
I would clean the solder joints with isopropyl alcohol. Hint, if you solder such tiny headers use some flux !!
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need help what replacement part can i use for
MFR.Part #
EL3H7(B)(TA)-G
JLCPCB Part #
C32565
Could use LTV816, LTV817, there are probbably many
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thax…
Is this
MFR.Part #
EL3H7(C)(TA)-G
JLCPCB Part #
C92243
suitable replacment for
MFR.Part #
EL3H7(B)(TA)-G
JLCPCB Part #
C32565
?
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I have received my boards and decided to test them before putting any components on it. I have used old battery with 9.5v power output that only declined during testing. For safety I used 2A fuse just to be sure nothing bad happens. All of testing places had 4.8v output except 1 pinout on ampseal which had like 4.3v. With time, as battery declined outputs declined simultaneously. Can this anomaly be contributed to bad battery and is it safe to proceed putting together PCB?
That should be fine as long as nothing got hot and the regulators were working.
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Thank you!
Hi, are there any instructions on how to connect the green UM982 to the Standard 4.5 board?
I dropped the auto steer for the past few months and farmed with just the gps - which was very helpful. Now that I have a minute I started to dig back into this.
I am following the below wiring diagram (which I posted previously).
In my messing around I was able to get the steer motor to work. However, it worked when I was in the steer wizard and I touched a simple power tester connected to the grounded terminal on the battery to the lock wire connection on the resister #85. I am not sure why touching the ground to this terminal would cause the motor
to run. I guess lock is a ground coming out of the ampseal connection #7 plug. I am attaching a picture of my board. Hopefully I am describing this in a way that makes sense to someone on this chat.
No, lock is 12v coming out from pin 7 that enables the relay that supplies the motor.
For steerswitch yes, need to touch a ground and it activates the autosteer.
Are you getting the cytron lights lighting up like it is trying to turn? Do you hear the relay activating when you enable steering?
Maybe you have the relay wired up for normally closed instead of normally open? That could cause it to shut off the motor instead of turn it on when the lock pin puts out power and maybe grounding it turns it on?
I played around with how the relay is connected and none of the changes I tried made any difference. However when I tested the wire off the ampseal plug #7 it did not send a positive nor a negative signal to the relay. The red light on the cryon is illuminated. Is there a solder on the board I should check since I am poor at soldering?
Ok. The way the cytron is lit up the motor should be turning. I can’t think of why the lock circuit isn’t working other than a bad or wrong connection or something burned up.
You actually can run it without the relay just fine. The steering wheel will be a little harder to turn but it won’t hurt anything. I have run them like that for quite a while.
By the steer wizzard picture you should be getting motor response at that.
Double check your wiring from the ampseal to the motor and from the relay to the motor
Thanks for all the help. The end problem was the original suggestion that I had it on normally closed (pin 87) vs normally open (pin 87a).
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I’m having a bit of a problem with my first order. I need to replace U4 and U5 (No part selected).
Will part number C5369649 be ok for this? It has a bit different specs, but not by much.
Also EL3H7(B)(TA)-G part C32565. Can it be replaced by C5213653 that has the same name but there is a bit difference in specs?
move the slider from imu to gps to smooth out field bumps
ive found fix2fix at 1m helps too
then set steer responce to suit your driving
I am new to these boards so, this maybe a stupid question.
I am trying to plan a build, I have picked most of my hardware, when it comes to this AIO board, are there any variants that are setup better for a
Keys v4 motor kit
I ask this because it has an absolute encoder with battery backup, and I was hoping that a steering angle sensor was maybe not needed, or if still needed the system is less depended on it.
I was wondering if any mods to the AIO could be made to take advantage of this motor setup to reduce its complexity?
If a mod is not needed is there a config file to order this AIO with that steering motor in mind? And with duel antenna in mind?
If this question is better asked on another thread please point me to it.
Thanks.