Hello Vili, do you also have a drawing of the Hammond end plate suitable for the Micro Ampseal board? Thanks
Whether it’s the standard or micro PCB if we have a single antenna, on which side should we put the f9p? right or left? is there a preference?
On the Right for single with IMU.
And in this case, which cfg should be uploaded to the F9p module?
The single config
Did someone manage to add an on/off switch to this PCB and on a 3D printed box? How do you guys turn off the whole PCB when you are done with work? Is there some kind of relay? Any schematics?
Thanks!
Just use a switch between GND or 12V?
But do we want to drive all current for the motor through the switch?
And won’t that will be messy? Because ampseal connector is soldered to PCB…? I would need to cut one of the pins and solder 2 wires (one from ampseal connector pin to the switch and the other from the switch to the PCB where ampseal pin was supposed to be soldered?
If you just put a cable with fuse holder between battery and on/off switch. And the otherside of the switch goes to pin 22 on the ampseal connector plug then you have a on/off switch for the whole pcb. Thats how i power up my pcb
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I have done as @Raycorp, I have a box that houses:Main isolation switch, Fused 12V from battery, the 12V to 24V converter and a relay to isolate the Phidgets motor when autosteer is disengaged.
I have drilled an extra hole next to the Ampseal socket, that has a cable gland with a 4 core cable, this goes straight to the Cytron bringing in 24V and taking the motor output to the relay.
I wanted to leave my AIO board as stock as possible.
Great, thanks for the ideas… What current rating is on your switches?
Did anyone try with a relay?
Hello Jake I’m interestend in the group buy, I sent you and email but I don’t know if you have received it
Does the all in one pcb support Dual Ardusimple (large version) with Xbee reception for correction data from the base?
The Standard sized AiO PCB doesn’t have a dedicated Xbee socket, you have to plug the XBee directly into the Right/Main F9P. That means the Xbee serial baud has to match the uart2 baud which is also the port that the two dual f9p use. Lately there’s been a change to 460800 baud so the Xbee radios need updating too.
I’ve received my micro boards without headers. Partly due to parts availability but mainly so I could make sure they were properly aligned.
I’m currently putting together a digikey order for the remaining parts and I’m seeking some guidance on header part numbers; specifically the teensy eth headers. I’m trying to find headers that are height compatible with the 0.1 pitch headers used on the rest of the teensy.
The schematic isn’t helpful as it refers to a part number that digikey doesn’t recognise but also turns up blank in LCSC.
Cheers,
Pete
The 2x40 15mm is a nice length. They stick out slightly further then the rest of the Teensy’s headers
I’m not sure that you’ll find 0.1" and 2.00mm pitch headers the same height for the teensy GPIO and teensy eth pins to mate with. I haven’t received my boards yet. My plan is to accept that the female header will sit lower and to solder extra long male eth pins onto my teensy’s (which came without any eth pins). There will be a small section of unmated pin for the eth connection, but that’s ok.
Here is the LCSC teensy eth header from the schematic I have, not sure why your schematic would be different: A2005HWV-2x3P CJT(Changjiang Connectors) | C225302 - LCSC Electronics
Here is a 1x24 0.1" female header for the teensy gpio receptacle. Note that the schematic uses a 20p and a 4p beside each other (which are both currently out of stock at JLCPCB). You can just use 24p since you are ordering and are no longer limited by what JLCPCB SMT service carries.
Here is a 2x3 2.00mm female header for the teensy eth receptacle.
Here are long 2x3 2.00 male headers to solder onto the Teensy. I can’t guarantee they are long enough because I don’t have stock of any of this yet, but its the longest 2x3 2.0mm that digi carries.
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The 2x3 2mm header pins need to be I think at least 13mm.
Digi key do have longer ones, these work:
It’s mentioned in this thread somewhere, that PJRC (the Teensy people) have the female header soldered to the Teensy and the pin headers (long) on the board.
I’ve been stacking 2 female headers and using standard pin headers, but the mating sometimes isn’t as smooth as it probably should, so I’ll transition to the other way round for future installs. Thanks @TeddyStamford for the tip on the long headers. I hadn’t managed find anything suitable.