All in One PCB

We will post the link here for the pre-release of the new all in one boards.

Anyone wanting the Micro can use this link for now.

If you want the newer version of the micro with heavier traces, you can use the link below. This version has no CAN bus and the Danfoss items are deselected. It is a more basic version for motors and Baraki style valves1zrq5fCmgnHIgDfPKuzCoCPbCredL4bm6. There is a post below with instructions.
NO more solder jumpers. The google link has been updated

It has both Amp and Duetsch

For the standard F9P all in one

Standard Deutsch

Standard Ampseal

Micro Deutsch

Micro Ampseal


Ordering assembled PCBs

When ordering, just use the defaults that come up when you add your gerber.

Next enable pcb assembly

Leave everything at default and hit “Confirm”
At that point you may be asked to sign in or create an account. Make sure you use a good email that you check regularly. JLC is good to ask questions if needed.
After you are finished setting up your account, then hit “confirm” again

This page should come up next.
Add the BOM and CPL(pick and place) files

Next you need to say what it is for.
I select research/education, and select programmable controller. Some select toy.
Click “Next”

This will bring you to the BOM selection page. Look it over and make sure that the parts you need are selected and in stock.
We will get better instructions together for this in the future. (I Hope)
If a needed part isn’t in stock, you can try again in a few days, or just add the part as through hole.
Click “Next”
It will show a preview of the boards and part placement.
From there you can add it to your cart and check out.
You can order 5 boards and only have 2 of them assembled. It really doesn’t save much money.


I have ordered 20 of each PCB with Ampseal 23 connector so anyone from Canada (and maybe USA) interested in only 1 or 2 let me know in a private message. I’m not sure yet what the price will be, depends on what you all need/want as there are some parts that’ll need hand soldering to complete the PCB. I’m also still working on figuring out a complete box/PCB/harness kit that might include a custom CNC end plate for a Hammond box. Once @Vili has the CAD drawings finished I want to ask a laser or water cutter to quote me on a bunch.

I’m all out of PCBs.


Optoisolators from Boom are not available. Will this be a good replacement?

3D print Box

MICRO Version (1,9 MB) (1,2 MB)


How to print Box?

All boxes can use 1mm diameter silicone gasket

Special Standard Box (1,3 MB) (718,0 KB)

Added screws options


Well yes, I guess any of those will work. The pinout is same. All we are doing is kind of a momentary contact for a signal.

What’s the difference between the deutsch and the ampseal?

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Deutsch is 12 pins and AMP is 23 pins. Has a few more options and some room to grow

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Do I need to match it with the tablet, motor, antenna, or other parts I’ve already purchased? Or if this is the first full unit I’m building should I just go with the AMP to leave options open?

We are reccomending the AMP becase it is more available and it leaves room for future additions
Either is good though

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I can’t find the schematic in the files.
is it possible to have them to understand the possibilities offered by this PCB.

I’m mainly interested in the AMP standard.

thank you

Great. Thanks for the information.

All files should be there

In the backupProjects, is an underfolder named 1-Schematic

Will f9p or bynav fit on the standard board with the recommended parts list? Or have I to change something in the part ordering at JLCPCB?

The MD13S blocks a free turn of the connected motor. I know two possibilities to “disable” this. Use a relay to disconnect power line to the motor or treat the hack discribed in this forum to the cytron board. How have I to handle this with the all in one board?

This new AiO board has the option of connecting pwm2 to the cytron for the freewheeling mod. There also is an on board solder jumper to select either the PCB’s 12v or an external power supply (24v for example) for the cytron which could include an external relay.

The Standard box exceeds the printing place of my printer, which is about 20 cm. What do you think about to cut the box for example at a height of 18 cm? The separeted side of the box is be “melted” with the front panel. The connection of box and modified front panel is done by 4 maschine screws.

Demand regarding your second sentence. So we would not disconnect powerline between motor and cytron, we would disconnect powerline to the cytron, right? There are no problems expected if the cytron is turning on/off all the time (small fields, no uturn is used)?

Now that I think about that some more, I believe the cytron would still cause braking on the motor so you should instead use an external relay between the cytron and motor like most people are doing. I think the LOCK output can control an external relay.