Auto Steer Configuration (Gain)

I have seen many videos on autosteer settings with motors, but not not so much with hydraulic solenoids.

I am curious to know what kind of numbers people are using with hydraulic setups when it comes to proportional gain, Output gain and minimum PWM Drive.

Me also… Not at that stage yet, but would be nice to have some rough numbers to start with, if there drastically different to using a motor…

It depends on pressure and flow.

Even with hydraulic steering, use this method:

Proportional Gain 49
Output Gain 13
Min PWM 9
John Deere 6920s, Hydraforce SP10-57C+pressure reducing valve+pressure compensated flow control valve. Needs some fine tuning.

Got any photos of the valving setup? I have a SP10-57C setup for my tractor, also deere 6030 series, so very similer setups…

I have the oem hydraulic block and orbital on my Case IH Magnum 250 tractor.

My setup is still oscillating slightly so I don’t want to share my numbers just yet to save from confusing people haha. Was just curious to see if there is a big difference between motors and solenoids.

I plan to play around with different PWM frequencies today as well to see what works best. Low vs High

Do you check when driving or in “drive” mode as in video? With “drive” mode you eliminate oscillating input from GPS/setpoint.

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Exactly Larsvest, that sets nicely the initial settings.That video comes from a hundred different code builds and seems to work really well. The interaction between the settings is tricky for the final, but things like steer zero, counts per degree, get all that done first. Use Drive, get it working to follow your actions. Go down a smooth road, play around with settings in AB Line mode, see what they do and their effect.

Whether motor or hydraulic the procedure is exactly the same. Achieve the fastest correction without oscillating or oversteering.

This is from my 6630.
20191227_103331 kopio

Thanks for that,

Interesting setup, have never seen a 6000 series with spool valves mounted up under the cab like that before? Looks like standard power beyond slice though that you have hooked your P / T / LS lines up to? Which is what I was planning to do also…Cant see where your steering lines come out the valve and T into the tractor lines though?

When I bought this tractor I wanted more hydraulic outputs to the rear of the tractor. Adding this center valve was the easiest solution. Originally they are used with front loader. And then I mounted second hand power beyond block to supply oil to Hydraforce valve.
If you look closely, you can see the steering lines behind the ball valve. I have some photos of 6920s hydraulic installations here Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
It’s quite similar as 6630.

Edit: Here’s another photo from 6630:
20191212_102201 (2)

Ah yes, I can see them hidden in there now!

Those photos on your 6920S look identical to how I was hoping to setup mine, I can see you have a flow regulator or something on the pressure line to hydraforce on your 6630? Is this to reduce flow to make it more controlable? And a manual valve for safety? I was thinking to do that also… Also looks like you have changed the system again in that last photo and added another component to that pressure feed?

Any reason you sent return to that pipe under cab rather than backend? Or just because it was closer and easier?

I already have front loader connected to the power beyond slice on mine, but the valve block for that is right there in the same place as your extra slices, so to make life simpler / shorter hoses was just going to T the P and T right there at the block, as well as LS, although think I will need to use a shuttle valve also on the LS line to split between loader block and hydraforce, but thats no problem…

In my 6630 there is a pressure compensated flow control valve to reduce oil flow since Hydraforces max flow 23L/min is way too much for steering and a ball valve for safety yes. Last photo was taken earlier when I tested 2 way pressure reducing valve, but it was very noisy so I removed it. 3 way pressure reducing valve works much nicer in my 6920s.

In 6920s the T line goes under cab because it was the easiest way to do and JD service recommended to do so.

I planned teeing the center valve P, T and LS lines too, but since they are original steel pipes with tight fit and special connectors, I abandoned that plan. Mounting an power beyond slice was easiest way in my case. And I don’t need a shuttle valve on LS line now.

Would you recommend the 3 way pressure reducing valve then or just a pressure compensated flow control valve like on your 6630 there?

I understand not touching the steel lines! Power beyond slice the best choice with your setup for sure, very tidy. Mine is all hoses, so very easy to add T’s.

I think flow control is enough. It reduces a bit pressure too.

Thanks for all the pics / info…Sounds like my setup should work, just got to wait for the valve, backordered for 3 months, still no sign!

Dont suppose you know off hand what fittings are used on the stock steering lines under the cab do you ? Where you have them T’ed. I did remove one ages ago and measure it / figure it out, but forget now! Was going to start getting a list of fittings together!

Checked from the invoice that T fittings that I’ve used are ORFS 13/16".
Similar to this: l-stud-13-16-orfs - KRAMP

Perfect, thanks!

Im confused and frustrated haha. I watched the setup video and tried that and could get my tractor to drive fairly well but it would still oscillate. It’s hard to judge when you have hydraulic steering because you don’t get to watch how the steering wheel acts. I ended up measuring from rim edge to center on left and right to make it come back to perfect center. I even clamped boards to the tires and measured the angle of the front wheels and had it match up by changing the counts per degree to get for example a perfect 15 or 25 degrees. It now steers decent to the right but when turning left it over shoots and when driving straight it still oscillates. I can’t for the life of me understand why. It acts up more in stanley then in pure pursuit. I wonder if the OEM wheel angle sensor is playing games with me.

Any ideas?