How is your wheel sensor mounted?
Does your tractor have ackermann steering? (I know John deere and New Holland are familiar with it)
Edit, sorry I see you use a OEM installed WAS.
If you open serial monitor in the arduino, you can see the readout data in the first line.
Please set your wheels in the exact center, write down the value. Then full to left, write that number down, then full too right and write it down also.
Center value - left value = x
Center value - right value = z
If X and Z have a big difference then thereâs something wrong with your WAS
You can watch the movement of your steering sensor direct in AOG, by following the red line in the steer chart. When steer chart is open the red line will move, also when turning steering wheel by hand.
The red line must move all the time when turning steering wheel. If the line stops moving before end of steering (left or right) then something is wrong with the adjustment of the WAS, as Richardklasens mentions.
I measured from the side of the rims to a center point on the frame. Even if it was a hundred one way or the other it would still be a decent difference.
I went to the drive window in agopengps and told it to go to 25 degrees left then right and the measurement from rim to center was greater when to the right
The OEM wheel angle sensor has two pots in it. One pot is for the 4x4 and diff lock disengage. Then a second pot for the navigation system. I just had to plug into it.
I wonder if the pot is worn out?
The wheel angle sensor from CASE IH is part number (87524642) and its $271 CAD.
I just looked at the same setup for my magnum 215. I priced out parts from case and they want $394 for the mounting kit and $286 for the sensor, more if you have a 12 bolt hub. I have just started looking for a sensor like this, as I am a little concerned with the sensors from princess auto or other ride height sensors, because I have had instances where going through a low spot throws up a fair bit of mud and I am a little concerned about damage to the ride height sensor setup. Have you looked at off the shelf sensors for replacement, I am just starting to look for one and I should be able to fab up a mounting similar to factory I hope.
Richard is asking some really important questions. Like when the zero is set, on flat ground does it go straight? or does it curve a bit, No way you can set zero by measuring rims etc.
Iâm sure your sensor is just fine if it reads consistently turning left and right and holds pretty still when not moving.
When driving along with Drive ( in the steer setting form last tab) and moving the slider to steer your tractor, does it snap quickly to where you set it? Or does it take awhile yo get there? Or not at all? Or overshoot?
Can you take a video of the drive? But first, go for a drive down the road and check when on zero it goes straight and doesnât wander too much either (bad ball joints). Without that set, nothing will work very well. Watch the video on basic settings with these points in mind.
I have drove around for hours adjusting the zero point and watching the steer chart and my imu angle to see if iâm going straight or wandering and each time I go and try it the zero spot seems to change ever so slightly. It turns better one way then the other. The tractor joints are all good. I ended up taking the sensor off and testing it on my workbench.
Given 5V
low end = .4 V
high end = 4.6 V
middle = 2.7 V
center to high end diff =1.9 V
center to low end diff = 2.3 V
should matchâŠ
Meaning I have a different voltage amount from center to the outsides. It seems as I turn the pot up the change becomes less. I know pots are known to wear out and this one is 10 years old so maybe its time to change it out. The wiper in them can let go.
I understand I canât measure rims to set a zero point for steering. I was doing that to test the pot. If I have it come to true center when I hit zero in drive mode and then tell it to go to 25 degrees left then 25 right and the actual measurements are different from rim to center that tells me the pot isnât accurate anymore.
âAnaloginputvoltagesmustneverexceedthe analoginputvoltagelimitsgivenin theAbsoluteMaximumRatings.If a VDDsupplyvoltagegreaterthan4 V is used,the ±6.144V full-scalerangeallowsinputvoltagesto extendupto the supply.Althoughin this case(or wheneverthe supplyvoltageis less thanthe full-scalerange;for example,VDD= 3.3 V and full-scalerange= ±4.096V), a full-scaleADCoutputcodecannotbe obtained.For example,with VDD= 3.3 V and FSR= ±4.096V, only signalsup to VIN= ±3.3 V can be measured.The coderangethatrepresentsvoltages|VIN| > 3.3 V is not usedin this case.â
So does my schematic for HĂŒrlimann, but it is a Hall sensor.
If (when turning potentiometer) you get change in Ohm reading (on multimeter) between 3 and 2 and without 5v to 1, then it is a potentiometer.
Does your sensor fit tight//without slack to the stick (item 3 on picture) that connects to steering axcle ?
I think you may be correct. When I measure ohms on its own it doesnt change when turned. Itâs too bad it doesnât give a better voltage reading. I could of used it anyhow. I guess I have to try mounting an actual potentiometer on my axle somehow.
I donât think your sensor is faulty, it just needs to be adjusted.
From your picture of sensor assembly, it looks like it is possible to adjust between item 5 and 7 in âclicksâ of 30 degrees, which probably will be too much. But the pin item 3 must also be adjustable somehow. This way you can get 2,5 V in the middle.
