BNO is Ok, but not the CAN module. Did you change the CS pin 9/10 to suit your module?
I disconnected the can module to find the problem. In the monitor BNO is Ok but ago he does not see them or rool
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I have already found a bug, I have not connected the SCK.
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The cables are probably ok but can not work. I have 8MHz quartz, there is probably a problem here …
In the ino CAN setup section just change the 16mhz to 8mhz
You might find some useful hints here.
If you type puma in search (magnifying glass) at top right, you can find more help.
Look for connector under left cover (behind passenger seat)
Will you be ok?
Good 
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Works fine! Tomorrow I will try to connect to Fendt. Thank you Tony.
Im currently also building a system on a Case Puma 200, nearly the same age as yours.
In my Case I removed a Trimble fm-1000 System and started a Agopengps build. I left the Harness with the Connector for the NAV Controller in the Tractor, but I didn’t want to cut of the connector so i layed new wires in the Tractor.
I disconnected the wires going to the Orbitrol, and made my own wires which i routed in to the Cab.
I connected the Steering Valves to the Cytron and GND, and the Main Valve to block the other two on 12 Out and GND on Brians PCB. In my case, when i flip my switch to activate the Relay on the PCB, the Main Valve gets powered so i can steer.
The WAS:
I Unplugged the Connector, on the Right side of the Radiator, Removed the Original Connectors and build in Deutsch Connectors, with another cable going to the Cab. I found out how to wire up my WAS with a Multimeter, when measuring the Resistance.
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Thank you very much for the information, I have read several of the topics and it has clarified me a lot. I will continue to report progress and ask questions!
I see that it is difficult to use the cables that come out of the valves and the angle sensor, I think it is a good option to replace them with new ones and not touch the ones that are pre-installed. Then connect them as indicated in the agopengps schematics. Thank you very much for sharing your work, let’s move on.
@CVX.
I should make a simpler diagram for T6, where I Don 't shift wires in connectors.
That way security relays and the original autosteer switch still works.
In my first diagram I wanted to ONLY use wires already in steer ready tractor.
EDIT: Can be found in my onedrive, get link in success stories: new-holland-t6-175-year-2018
I was able to run my Fendt 933 without any problems. I did not test in the field because it was raining, so only a hall test with simulator turned on and manual control, but it seems to work well. The lessons in the initial posts came in handy, I could easily check that the communication was working properly and fix any bugs. @common rail is a very good teacher, thanks a lot.
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Thank you Tony (@CommonRail) for the fast answer…but unfortunately our arion dont have this can id…Do you know if only claas tractors which are Gps ready have this Button activated?
I cant imagine that claas uses diffrent can IDs for the Same Joystick…
Do you know then CAN ID from the F Buttons from your aaxion ? SSo i can Check if this can id is existing at our arion. (maybe can id of the f7 Button or so?)
The can Id that Tony suggested is only on the steering canbus so if the tractor doesnt have the autopilot valve then you dont have the steering canbus. You would then need to look on the tractor canbus to try find a message from the button and I would think it’d be a different id
Hello,
how do I have to connect the BNO08x to the Arduino?
BNO085 5volt or CMPS14
GND - GND
SDA - A4
SCL - A5
VCC - 5v
BNO080 3.3volt
GND - GND
SDA - 330ohm - A4
SCL - 330ohm - A5
VCC - 3.3v
The 3.3volt version you have to check, heaps of people say it works fine with the 330ohm resistors but you are best to use a level shiter. The otherday somebody else just added some pulldown resistors to bring the 5volt pull up back closer to 3 volts
I did use 330ohm in serie to A4 and A5 and pulldown resistor for Bno080 to arduino