I must have missed it, I’ll send it today.
We will send the valves to everyone who ordered in my online store within the next few days, I think it will take a maximum of a week. We have temporarily run out of parts, but this week I will receive a new batch and we will immediately pack and send them.
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Cool ! 
The whole world is waiting for your valves!
Somebody is waiting whole Month for invoice
I ordered a valve on January 16th through the website. I paid by credit card on the website when I ordered. I received my invoice immediately through email. I received a shipping tracking number a few days later. The valve arrived on January 26th, Fedex tracking showed that Fedex was a couple of days behind on their delivery. So 10 days from buying to receiving (in Canada). The packaging was very good, I don’t think it is possible for the valve to become damaged in shipping.
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I want to order two of these for JD 4230 and JD 4240. Honestly, after reading this thread, I’m hesitant to do it. I get that this is where people troubleshoot, but I’m reading about lots of tedious problems. Do most people have this much trouble getting it to work?
I bought a V2 board and used potato farmer’s steering gears last year, but never got it working. Stripped several small gears and spent hours trying to get it calibrated before giving up. I don’t want to deal with that again.
Somebody put my mind at ease…
I ordered four valves befor Christmas, three arrived and one is still missing
You could always consider the Keya steering motor as an alternative.
5V, Ground and Pin 10 on AIO PCB.
It’s a pressure transducer, needs a 5v supply and ground, then the signal connecting to the PCB.
The jumper on the PCB needs setting to pressure.
Many thanks
Is that as they are numbered?
As in pin 1 = 5 v
Pin 2 = ground
Pin 3 = pin 10
Pin 1 is signal (pin 10 on AIO PCB)
Pin 2 is Ground
Pin 3 is 5v
It’s in the hardware WiKi
Thanks again, I have seen a pic of the wiring diagram on various places but could never find it with a 3 pin, only ever the 2 pin.
A couple more questions, then I’ll leave you in peace for a while, I take it it doesn’t matter which way the solenoids are wired? As in live left pin or right pin in each plug?
If you were putting a kill switch to isolate the valve would it be best on the feed to the relay? Would it be better killing the feed to the pub as well, or somewhere else?
I have the hydraulic end done and about to start on the wiring.
Thanks again.
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You are correct doesn’t matter which way you wire any of the solenoids.
Ideally isolation switch that powers pin 18 of the Ampseal and the power for the relay.
PCB on separate switch, because there will be times you want PCB and don’t want autosteer.
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I too was concerned, reading posts about wandering and wobbling wheels.
I was very happy with phidgets motor and 3D cogs, but the Baraki is a revelation, silky smooth, fast and responsive.
I wouldn’t hesitate at all.
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Hi Marek. I reed you have new batch received. Will you send me a valve ? And send me the invoice too please?
Last week the parts hadn’t arrived yet. They are supposed to send them to me today, so just a little while longer and the orders will be ready. I have already ordered a very large number of parts for the next delivery, so the deliveries will be quick.
Has anyone put a baraki valve on an international 5088? If so could you send me some pics of the installation? Also, i believe i need a closed center valve? Can somebody confirm? Thanks
Yup, just did one on a 5488.
You’re going to want the Open Center valve configuration, 30L flow. That’s what is working for me.
I don’t have a lot of good pics, but here’s a link to what I posted here a few weeks ago (useful content/pics are at post 688 in this thread):
I thought I was going to install the valve under the hood, but I found it much easier to install under the engine behind the oil pan. I made a bracket that cantilevers from the right hand frame rail to hold the valve in that position. You can see somewhat in the pic if you look closely.
I had some issues to work through, but Marek (Baraki), Larvest, and some others helped me through it, and everything is working good now. There ended up being what I think was a manufacturing flaw with my valve block. I don’t think the issues I had with my valve are typical. I’ve got several 88 series, so this won’t be my last Baraki valve.
Feel free to reach out if you have questions.