I managed to control the wheel angle thru can with the speedsteer button this morning.
The position seem few blurry like if it always try to correct the position.
I must test more few
later.
Anyway thanks for these informations, it will we useful if I fail like this.
With the speedsteer activated (autosteer button still dark), the center position in AOG is few to the right in reality.
I managed to calibrate the center postion of the WAS sensor on the tractor (press up+right, turn the key and maintain till the menu appear) but it was already correct.
Then in manual steering in AOG, when I ask center position, AOG ask, get and display 0° but in reality it’s few degrees to the right. If I ask +5° it turn right from 5°. Arrows also work fine.
This is ok but when I ask 0° it’s not the real center position, and I know what you think: let’s center the wheels and press the “WAS zero” button.
I did, and then when i ask the zero position, the wheels go to the exact same previous position (few to the right) but insted of displaying 0° AOG display +5°.
I really don’t understand why AOG ask zero and stop at +5°…
(see that in video, but it’s in french sorry https://youtu.be/StoZnYi3wF0)
The WAS sensor position evolve in the good direction, steering with arrows steer in the good direction so I don’t believe there is something to invert.
Change the center on the CAL2 menu of the tractor change nothing, make WAS zero in aog change nothing (or just the displayed value in AOG).
What other source of problem can it be?
I’m pretty sure that CAL2 menu is only for the tractor (diff lock & 4wd) not the steering but it’s been a few years since I done anything in those menus.
What happens if you turn the steering wheel by hand? What dose the arrow in the bottom right corner of AgOpen tablet do?
Did you workout why your steering button is not working on the side panel, I’m sure that is going to cause some problems.
CAL2 is the menu that the dealer staff told me, I just applied but you are maybe right because they also told about left and right endstop position, however, here, I can only adjust center position.
If I turn by hands (I do in the video), the arrows do nothing, just the “progression bar” of the steering angle follow the wheels.
If me and the dealer understood well, the side column buttons are only necessary to enable WAS sensor and steering valve’s messages on the canbus (this is why you can do nothing with none of them activated) and speedsteer or autosteer button allow it.
For the moment I use the speedsteer button, this didn’t shocked the dealer and a guy from the french telegram group who tried to help me many time ensure me that someone he know managed to made work AOG perfecctly in speedsteer mode (like I try to do).
He’s supposed to give me the phone number of this guy. Asap, I’ll ask him where goes the wheel at first activation.
If it confirm the WAS calibration problem I must go back to my dealer but they didn’t seem to be aware of what to do…
So who’s right? I don’t know. But it seem to me that it’s already a problem that we need the dealer to adjust the zero position of WAS because it’s a quite usual stuff to do…
Thanks for your help anyway, more we try solutions, more I believe that my dealer just don’t know what to do for WAS, valve’s and to program the colum buttons, they’ll have to find.
Not that I know about your tractor, but when i was working on the CNH T6-175, I noticed there were two separate wiring looms for speedsteer and autosteer.
The puma 230 is almost same, maybe you can get some help here. (I know they are not CAN type)
I guess your tractor is “autosteer ready” for speedsteer, and therefore only might have the diff lock WAS sensor at front wheels. The T6 -175 got a different front axle before delivery to be able to have correct WAS
As far as I remember the diff lock WAS is only contact type, and real WAS is Hall type
BL08,
The calibration in the dash you are performing will only affect the 4wd and the Difflock kick out. You will need to perform the WAS calibration as well as the Wheel angle center value. I have attached a screenshot from EDT of the calibrations that will need to be performed. I’m not sure how much labor/time you want to spend but theoretically you could adjust your WAS (since most folks don’t have access to EDT) to reach the 0 reading by manually turning the sensor in the axle. I believe the holes are slotted on the sensor for small adjustments (this is why a calibration is needed). If the dealer is going to be doing the calibration please also have them perform a “curvature test” the wheels of the tractor need to move smoothly from left to right and we should see the WAS count increase smoothly as the wheels turn (by themselves during the test). This will verify everything in your steering system (WAS, PVED, and SASA) are working correctly.
@Larsvest
I know the different sensor’s on CNH but never heard about this on MF.
It’s auto-steer ready yes, but without autosteer, in fact speedsteer mode use the valve to steer the wheels with less angular movement of the driver on the steering wheel. Anyway that mode allow to get the desired can messages for guidance.
@Cat_Doctor
Very interesting, now if I must go to the dealer I have a clear idea of what to ask!
I already tought about checking the WAS next time, but I had nearly no hope that it could be adjustable, your message give me that hope again, that’s very nice to know.
However, as you said, the difference to center position seem big and I’m not sure there would be enough slotted distance, but it worth to try it…
Thanks for all this!
I removed the cap with with wires and 3xM6 srews on the axel where I tought the WAS sensor was, but no, it’s deeper on left in the axle.
Someone know where the sensor is really located before I disassemble half of the axle (maybe to discover it’s not adjustable)?
@Cat_Doctor maybe?
By the looks it is like cnh axle.
Sensor in top of king pin. 3 screws under holders for mudpad.
The wire you show in picture goes to a 3 pin connector that sensor fit down into (in center of king pin)
Don’t remember if sensor house is totally circular under the 3 screws, so house can be adjusted as you like.
Good monring BL08,
The housing you have disassembled is the junction box. The sensor lead and the tractor’s engine harness meet here. This would most likely be the DANA 750 or Dana 755 axle. I have attached the parts manual page for you to reference. Item 11 is your actual W.A.S. I have also attached the section from the WSM regarding the removal/installation of the W.A.S. Let me know if you need any further assistance.
750 Front Axle WAS.pdf (1.3 MB)
wk051039-1.pdf (118.3 KB)
Thanks for anything, really useful.
I understood with it it’s like russian roulette to adjust manually as after you re-assemble, if you aren’t exactly at the center you have to dissasemble again!
My dealer have problem with EDT but we will adjust thanks to it…
By the way, I saw EDT licence around 200€ from china, but what about the can-usb interface?
The AGCO one cost minimum 700€!
There is a cheaper alternative or not?
Puh, I am also looking for the CanUSB.
Tried to get a fake one on aliexpress, but they wanted 6000€ for it. At least in Germany you get one for about 5000€ on ebay. The Interface is made by Sontheim Elektronik but they do not offer it. With the interface they sell you can only have access to the engine control unit.
Where to find the CanUSB for 700€;?
On aliexpress lol.
But 700€ is already too much.
Haha I wrote them and they meant that is only for the software and not the complete price
BL08,
Unfortunately I do not have a CAN box to spare. I do know that there are pirated versions of EDT available but I’m not sure if there is an offbrand CAN box as well. Ferdi is correct and the boxes are made by Sontheim, they used to be sold by Snap-on but I’m not sure on availability any more as everything seems to be in short supply these days. In addition to the box you will need an adapter cable 930.203.600 (ATP8089) which just adapts the 9 pin Deutsch connector (at your X183/X184 diag ports under the right hand cover in the cab) to the 7 pin on your CAN box. With the rollout of TCD (AGCO’s latest diagnostic tool) the dealers are now renting laptops with EDT and all necessary cabling. I believe the price was approximately 500$ for 3 months, which in my opinion isn’t worth it if you can buy the pirated version for a tick more and a CAN box (odds are you’ll need it later down the road if you do your own repairs).
Let me know if I can be of any other assistance.
Free Internet Connection
Using the smartphone for hotspot in the past was fairly easy, but not very comfortable.
I used a cheap 4G USB surfstick (Alcatel one touch L850V) and the “netzclub sponsored basic” cellphone tariff, where I get 100mb/month free highspeed data usage. After that, transmission rate is 64kbit/s - this should be enough for RTK correction. You can sign up (for free) in Germany only, but using it is possible in the entire European Union.
Nice project!
We have mf 7724 2016. I thought it was autosteer ready but now I think mayby it isn’t. There is X230 socket but no autosteer button on side panel and no socket on roof. I tried to look if the is eny wires going to orbitrol and I did not see eny. In front axle, left side, there is a cable going inside so there is a sensor?
If there is a sensor for wheel angle can it be used for AOG via can bus or is it different kind of sensor for only 4wd and dif.lock use?
I would be grateful for eny help. I’am geting more and more interested on autosteering every day and thinking of doing a project of my one.
You can very likely poll the WAS over canbus - that’ll be there to trigger 4wd/difflock disengage as you steer. If there’s no autosteer button on the pillar, I’m guessing it won’t. But try it !
Have a read of this and see how far you get:
I would give it a try to look if the wheel angle is on that bus. arduino+can shield is under $20 so give it a try.
Does the tractor have quick-steer?
