If you buy a Teensy 4.1 you can wait a couple more days and order a pcb already assembled.
Ok, now I know everything, I sit down to order parts. Thank you very much for your help.
I am assembling a v2 pcb and the relay has not yet arrived, how can I make it work without a relay? would it be enough to connect contact 30 with 87 of the relay position?
I have never had a relay, but just used the 12v out as in.
I have placed another security switch on tractor
Just make a wire bridge beetween *12V-Battery Terminal and 12V-Out Termial
Thank you very much for the answers, I had read a long time ago in the forum about plugging 12v into the out, but I have not been able to find it.
Hello, the purpose of the relay used here is that if you accidentally reverse the battery voltage, it protects the circuit, that is, the relay does not work and the circuit does not receive energy. If you are sure that you have always connected correctly, you may not use a relay.
I have three other pcbs in operation, all with a relay, I will also put a relay on this one, but at the moment the order has not arrived and I need it by Thursday for a friend, so we will do without the relay until it arrives. Thank you.
I’ve always wondered what that was for -thanks
It is not just that simple . The big 3A diode D2 is doing that job. The trace at the on off circuit might burn as shown in this thread.
Unfortunately the pictures in the answering thread is gone now, due to the shift to another server for discourse.
But tooki57 had picture of the trace fully burnt away of shortcut going from small D3 diode through on off switch to GND. (When positive is at GND)
And the relay is indifferent to what direction power is going, and will activate.
The D3 is a flyback diode to take energy from spool in relay when you switch off.
Right, I answered as a whole, D2 diode is the main one-way voltage pass-through material, so let me fix it, if we do reverse voltage protection using only D2 diode (without relay), because of current restriction (3A) diode’s current is not enough to PCB, we have the whole circuit We provide the current by passing it through the contacts of the relay. If we had used a 10 or 15 Amp diode, there would be no need for a relay, I think it would still be sufficient for safety, that is, for reverse polarity.
When Brian T designed the PCB 3 years ago the 3 A diode was thought as protection of Nano and other sensitive devises on the PCB, and then 3A is enough.
But we could prohibit the Relay from activating by adding a small diode exactly where Tooki57 burnt a trace (Instead of the short 1 cm trace) .
That would also prohibit the shortcut through D3 at wrong polarity.
Then we could protect cytron and other stuff, connected to 12vOut, from reverse polarity.
Or as you suggest put a 10 to 15A diode instead of relay (where CVX has drawn a red line in post 23)
I just used a standard automotive relay and a rotary file to adjust the taps to fit board. Worked well.
Good idea to file the contacts, I thought about doing it but due to the little space between them I would have to use a very small file. I have connected 12v out to current and the board works, I have tested the cytron and it moves the motor
Hello everyone. I’m new to this forum. I’m sorry if I sound a bit clueless but I’m pretty new to Aog. Just like you all I’m very interested in the idea of setting up an autosteer on my tractor.
Here’s my situation: I already have a GPS system working well (Ardusimple antenna with a Simplertk2b). So far used it with ntrip to get Rtk corrections (it is free in my region). No problems whatsoever, even though I used it with other apps on my Android phone and manual steering.
Now I’d like to add autosteer, and problem is that this kind of stuff (I mean circuits and electrical components) are not really my cup of tea; I’m a bit better on the software side, I am fairly confident that I can make it work once I get everything assembled.
I’m about to buy a Kaupoi PCB 4.1 (Arduino Nano included) , then I’ll buy a BNO085, a Cytron MD13S, a Was and a 12 to 24v converter to feed a motor.
This is pretty much what I have understood I need.
My question is: I don’t have a solder, so my idea would be to give everything to a shop specialised in repairing electric devices; do you think they have all the info to make all the necessary connections and bring together all the pieces if I include the picture posted by @whiterose?
I’ve read the Github page top to bottom and got a rough idea of how the system works and I’m trying to read as much as I can on this forum as well, but as soon as it comes to soldering wires I have no idea how to do that.
So, is there a way in your opinion to get that part done by a professional, or do you advise me to give up considering I have no tools and expertise on this matter?
The soldering is easy get some perf boards of amazon buy some wire and a few cheap resistors watch some you tube videos and practice. Its not nearly as hard as learning software.
It may be more practical to find another forum member that has PCBs laying around. (you often buy 5 boards, also if you only need one) Or you could have a look at autosteer.cc , Andreas sells ready to use PCBs.
Thanks a lot for your answers. I’ve spent a lot of time reading threads on this forum and on Andreas’ website as well. Some topics are still obscure to me, but as I got more familiar with the PCBs, I guess it’s not actually that difficult to work out how to assemble it. I got the Kaupoi 4.1 with a Cmps14 for free. Dunno if it’s on par with the Bno085, which was my first choice, but still, got it with the board, so it’s OK. Bought the Cytron Md13s, and again, with the various bits in front of you it’s easier to see what to do and how to assemble them.
And with the kaupoi 4.1 you can still upgrade to panda system (teensy plus a bno085 on another pcb) and also the f9p in a panda box.
Yes. Already thinking about the upgrade. As of now though my goal is to set up a fully functional system. I am assembling this autosteer system because last year I bought a GPS antenna and that is a far too precise technology to be used manually, so automatic steering is the only way to make a proper use of that.
Don’t know how much better Panda is for basic uses, as I don’t need section control or other stuff, pretty simple straight line for mu cultivator and seeder
