Basically ‘yes’ to all of your points. An accessible push switch 
Yes farmer64 they are for the use you like. If you look carefully you find the 12v is the same as the +v at the steer, imp and remote, because the r8 “resistor” is actually just a piece of wire. I don’t have any screw terminals, all wires soldered directly to board.
Is the reset needed? I have not reset mine yet(other than when powered off)
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Needed at power up if usb is used and you forget the power up sequence.
Have a few more follow-up questions now that I have soldered the board up.
- What are pins at DoG2, A0, A1,A2, D2 and D5 for?
- Also there is 12 volt out on big 3 pin and also on small 2 pin beside the 5volt out. What’s the difference?
- How much power can the 5volt and 12 volt out ports run? Is this what I should use to power a USB hub and or maybe the GPS board? Does one of them power the motor controller?
- Is there a certain direction the 4N33 need to go in? Is there a backwards as they fit 2 ways.
5.On the WAS outputs there are 7 pins, I was thinking I would just need +5v, ground and signal. I must not be thinking of that correctly?? - Is there a reason for the 2 pins on 12volt battery? I was thinking 1 wire from battery fused, is that all I need?
Thanks
Please explain the “power up sequence”. That is the first I have heard of that.
Yes the notch in the 4N33 tells where pin 1 is.
Some of your questions are answered in schematic.png that you find in the support folder that comes to your computer when you download (windows download) AOG program.
Also check the autosteerpcbv2.ino
Max output from 5v depends of the 78xx type you ordered (you can get 500 mA 1000 mA and 1,5 A)
Don´t draw much power from small 12V (goes through diode so max 3A all together)
You don´t need 12 to 24 V dc dc converter, but can feed your motor controller directly from one of your 12 V mentioned in question 5
It is not a must to have an inclinometer (dogs2 or MMA8452) and I see you don´t have one on your board.
if arduino is powered before computer, windows does not always recognise usb connection, push reset or unplug and reinsert usb to rectify.
Or use ethernet UDP.
Ok thanks, I googled the #1 pin on a 4n33. Problem is my schematic and my PCB v2 have the bases a half turn off so I am not sure where Pin 1 is on my PCB.IMG_20200127_144636|375x500
I have the 1000ma 7805 so that answers that one.
I just haven’t received my 8452 yet but it’s going on PCB.
Thanks for help
I assume the A0,A1 g A2 are analog inputs directly to the Nano?
Still not sure of the D2 and D5, look like digital inputs to Nano?
And the J1 looks like it hooks to the SDA and SCL lines that are also connected to the 8452? I will have to Google SDA and SCL
A schematic bears little or no relation to physical layout and certainly not real world orientation. The PCB silkscreen does clearly show the orientation though.
SDA and SCL are i2c bus headers which are useful if you use a BNO055 for heading.
I think you refer to the schematic.pdf further down in the libraries.(AgOpenGPS_Support > PCB > AutosteerPCB_Gerber>AutoSteerSchematic.pdf)
Look at R12 it goes to pin 1 on OK2 (the OK closest to relay) and from OK2 pin 2 to steer switch.
Now follow the trace on the board from R12 to pin1 
Some OK4N33 only have a little dot (or hole) just by the pin 1 and no big notch as the ones you got. Mine are white and have a little hole.
It’s making more sense all the time, I should have looked at a new board and schematic a little more, the lines are under the components. I think I have pin 1 where it’s supposed to go now . Looks like I soldered a few extra things on but that’s Ok
Where can I get the pcb board
We have a PCB section, some useful guidance to order PCBs:
You could also mention your location. Perhaps someone has extra PCBs for sale.
I have 4 spares here in Cornwall UK
…and maybe 1 or 2 here in Cheshire.
I put together a pcb, but when I put the on-off switch on, my arduino nano broke. If I plug my nano into the USB port now, the power- and rx-LED will burn constantly, but there is no port recognized. Does anyone have an idea what I did wrong?
I have another nano, but don’t dare put it on the board now if I don’t know what went wrong.
Every connection should be checked with a multimeter prior to adding power.
Not hard to do, just systematically go through every trace/connection checking for correct polarity of components, continuity through wanted joints & unwanted bridges to nearby traces.
Thank you for the reply.
I think I found the fault.
My Arduino was under 12 volts. Turns out the voltage regulator gives 12 volts to the output.