PCBV4.1 - build and test

Not sure on the latest aio boards but on the previous ones you soldierd the 3pins on the cytron on the very end onto the little half moon notches, and same the opposite end. But see what lines up on your board

Hi del_boy! Thanks for the assistance in figuring out md13s placement. Yes there are half moons at both ends of the md13s with 4 on 1 end (marked MB, MA, - and +) and 3 on the other (marked DIR, PWM and GRD). So in terms of soldering, male header pins will be pressed on the notches of the half moon then soldered, got it. I know you’re not familiar with pcbv4.1 but probably somebody else will be able to assist. So is the indicated position on the board to receive the pins soldered to the notch on the md13s correct? Thanks.

@rogerix Two rows of pins

Got it, thanks!

Hi All!

Finally able to have board peripherals (i.e., bno, md13s and teensy) headers solder. Still gathering fuses. In the meantime I poke around trying to detect shorts on the md13s from the solder using continuity feature of my multitester. With the board not powered and md13s connected to the board I noticed certain leds on the board or at the md13s board lights up when conducting continuity test. When led lighted up no continuity occurred (i.e., the beeper did not trip!). Is the led behaviour indicative of an underlying problem I should be worried about? Thanks.

Hi! May I know when you mounted the teensy during the testing, was it flashed already with the aog code? In your 2.4 build the teensy was not yet loaded with the code hence the thing to observe if teensy was working was the blinking light. Same with 4.1? Thx

In thia case, it was loaded with the code

The continuity function of your multimeter tries to inject very little current via one probe and check if it flows back to the other probe. I guess that if the current does not flow you get some voltage, that may cause the circuitry to react in some way.

Have a look at this link especially the Continuity and large capacitors paragraph that is a good example of some circuitry behaviors.

Hi all. I have received my Aio pcb std (gerber v4.3) and I would have some opinions about the components that I need add for test. I have the teensy, f9p std and the bno is on the way. I need the 2x3 headers and pins for the ethernet connection.


Do I need the switch in circle blue and what use it is ?
What use it is in circle red
Why There is no fuse support vs the micro board ? And where is the best place ? On the 12v wire?
What is the two holes in circle black ?
Others questions will coming soon…
Thanks for your answers.

SW1_THT (blue circle) is the Steer Button for bench testing, like the Remote and Work buttons.
The black circled jumper is for extra Teensy IO, same as the two jumpers under the Teensy. It connects a Teensy pin to the Ampseal connector, for customizing options.
The red circled solder jumpers and those right below the black circle are for testing RVC mode on the BNO. There’s no official code yet for that. It’s also part of the extra 2 pin header under the ADS modules for testing Teensy A0 WAS input instead of the ADS.

Thanks for your answers. So I must buy a button and solder it. Have you references of it?

You don’t have to but it’s very convenient when testing on the work bench. I expect it’s the same button as the other two and it should/could have been installed by jlcpcb too.

I have a question. I am connected by UDP (network). Should I see com port under serial monitor? Everything is green, but no Com’s show up. GPS is working and IMU seems to be working.

No use the udp monitor

I bought the steering angle sensor RTY090LVEAX after the recommendation of this link.
I connected the sensor to the v4.1 amp 23 pin socket of the board.
Sensor Pin1 GND with ampseal 4 GND
Sensor Pin 2 VCC with ampseal 1 5 WAS 5v
Sensor Pin 3 output with ampselal 2 5v High.
The steering calibration can be said to be unresponsive.
In the application, the steering wheel is turned all the way to the left.
Is this the fault of the sensor?
Do I need to calibrate myself?

Have you set the sensor up with a volt meter ? Wheels straight ahead should be 2.5v i think or there abouts

I took the 5v and ground from the v4.1 board.
On one pin 1.1v and on the other pin 3.9v. When you turn the sensor, it does not respond. Mouser sent another such sensor, I think it was defective. Both sensors show the same thing.

With the wheels strsight ahead you should get be looking for 2.5v. The 0v the one lock and 5v the other lock. Are you Testing on ampseal pins 2 and 4?
Is the ads1115 chip installed on your pcb
Have you tried turning the sensor on the arm and testing it in a different place
You should be getting the full 5v on pin 1

ampseal 2 and 4 show 1.2v.
ads1115 chip installed.
turning the sensor by hand does not change the volts on the tester.

I see you’ve fitted the surface mounted module ads1115. Not sure on the micro 4.1 version but on the previous 2.5 version i think You’ll also need to add a 1k resistor i think. Can we have a better picture