I am worried about repinning the 23 pin ampseal as it won’t be a problem for experienced members but it is going to cause a lot and I mean a lot of confusion with new members. I already have had people confused by changing pin 18 to cytron power and I can guarantee you that if we did repin it there will be people frying their boards.
Also the UART1 is the teensy and appears to be unused for some reason, the teensy doesn’t need it for the usb serial.
What are the intentions with CAN? Will there be two Transceivers? In order to use Tonys Code, to steer and engage button via CAN. Would be nice, just like the V2.5.
Right now on the AIO 4.x there are 4 unused pins(19,11,12,13) I think it wouldn’t be a bad idea to open up options to use these to bring total CAN transceivers up to 3. For pins 11,12,13 that go directly to the teensy we could add jumpers to let them be selected for the other cam transceivers without changing the pinout. Then it could do everything Tony’s bird can do and more.
I think for CAN one could place receivers under one of the F9P slots and simply route them towards the back where there could be a 12 pin Deutsch or similar connector. ( Power, 3CAN, steerpin + 3 that you could wire as you want.) Use that side for CAN machines.
That’s a very unique request. Usually something like that is up to you to hack into the system. You currently already have access to 3 extra Teensy analog IO so just add the code yourself to the Teensy.
This whould be useful for hydraulic steering. Throw out original orbitrol, replace with el. solenoid proportional valve. And use steering wheel as pot / encoder to drive wheels manualy, and direct control valve with aog.
Would you drive such a tractor on a road? I would not dare to drive even in a field if there was no manual backup steering if a fuse gets blown or something like that.
There is already a secondary analog input for the WAS that almost noone uses. Connect it to a 5v signal joystick and write some code and you can joystick steer your tractor from the existing ampseal connector.
An esp32 module? Which wifi chip would you use? Just need a transparent bridge to one of the teensy serial or should it go straight to the ethernet and skip going through the Teensy at all.
I actually made an esp8266 into a micro F9P format. The idea being that you could stick it into one of the micro F9P ports and use it as a wifi to serial bridge like those cheap modules you can buy. Never bothered testing it though.
The ESP32 would be good. I like the WiFi performance of the 3D metal antennas such as the ESP32 Pico D4 has. These are much better than the PCB antennas. With the ceramic antennas like UM ESP32 ProS3 I don’t have experice. Alternatively use a module with external antenna, would be good with alu housing.
We could go via teensy, so there will be no IP settings needed for the ESP and no extra LAN port / switch will be needed.
Maybe use the XBee slot, no idea if it is possible with 3D or external antenna. Also depends on the costs. A S3 module directly put on the board when power supply is already there and no real USB chip is needed might be cheap as well
I see JLCPCB stocks the bare chip but that would require some RF design on the PCB. If we’re talking an external antenna then an ESP8266 variant with rf connector is just as good as a wifi AP/bridge like the ESP-07? I think it needs a small resistor removed to use the IPX connector?
ESP32 module with onboard rf conenctor, <$4 USD and JLC does currently stock it. Can order parts ahead of time though to your own “parts library” if necessary. Would be the most compact, and best RF perf with ext ant.