Will do
The rooftop unit has a gerber and a BOM, but no luck and place, does that mean we solder the components on ourself or is there something I am missing for JLC to install parts.
Thanks
Also, what is the agri node?
Yes, only simple THT components and the Pixhawk + QWICC components.
So we just order them and then solder to board? This board is needed instead of stacking the 2 F9p’s together from Ardusimple so that we can send the data through the Esp?
Yes, instead of stacking, you connect them via the Pixhawk connectors like described in this post.. The board was intended to use ubox boads from the gnss store, which would fit into a very small IP66 housing, but unfortunately they’re much more expensive. So I think most people will use Ardusimple boards.
Data handling is done with Matthias/Franz’ software (great work!), but some pin definitions have to be changed (different type of board in order to fit into a small housing)
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Will the Ardusimple boards fit onto this with the mounting points or are they too big?
it fits onto the mounting holes, but only one Ardusimple fits into the suggested aluminum housing
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fyi: I made a video about how to solder the USB-C receptacle on the board. Still hoping, JLC will be able to do that for us soon…
I used these chemicals (no, I don’t get any money for that, so feel free to choose similar products 
):
Annotation: Soldering the USB-C receptacle like this is only necessary, if you want to use a single USB cable for charging and data. USB itself is also connectable via a dedicated PushIn connector
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Great! Here (iron) and here (airgun) I found a video that made it look easy, which I’m sure it’s not at first try. But a lot of examples can be found on youtube.
Can you clarify how we should work with the 3 possible USB connections:
- push-in connector
- dual USB-A female port (option?)
- USB-C port (option)
For example, if you use a Ardusimple F9P, can you connect serial TX/RX to the push-in connector? And the USB-A if you want to connect the F9P with the micro-USB (a bad option in a bumpy environment). What is the purpose of the USB-A port?
Suppose you have multiple USB-devices to connect to the board, can you connect them in parallel to the push-in connector?
You’re right, there’s already a lot of stuff. The method shown doesn’t differ so much. My experience is, that, depending on the pitch, in some case only desoldering braid really works.
Concerning USB:
There are two options for the host connection: either via CN2 (PushIn) or the USB-C. And a lot of options for devices. Details are in the Gibhub repository readme. Let me know when there are still questions open.
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I finally ordered 5 pcbs. I did get somewhat of a preview this time.
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yes, unfortunately it’s just a yellow background and no PCB. Seems it works only for small files, but the result will be ok. Have you really checked all the missing parts for 2nd sources, e. g. Q8???
LED “WAS3” is missing. Intended or failure (possibly in my data??)?
You don’t want to control a 6/2 valve, do you?
In case you want to correct it, you should contact the chat. They can cancel the order and you can renew the data. Works really well. But simply sending new data is not possible.
I am quite interested in ordering a 5 pack just to see how they look/work. My biggest concern is the IBT -2, maybe that shouldn’t be a concern but it is. If the IBT quits or doesn’t work is there a spot that I can add some cabling to add a cytron? Is the board setup so a cytron could be added?
Thanks
I tried to outsource a few items. I did not on Q8. Is this something I should redo? Here is items not ordered.
Thanks
I think I know what you’re talking about… The original IBT-2 is based on two motor drivers from Infineon. They’re used in a lot of cars as well, so believe me, the reliability is nearly the best you can buy. But one of it costs the same than a full "“IBT-2"” board shipping from China. So my first doubt is: Are they using clones? And these board use the solder stop mask as electrical isolation between the board and the heatsink. No pad, nothing. Any questions?!
On my board, I’m using the latest chip version from Infineon. JLC sources at LCSC, so I’m quite sure, the quality is very high. And technically, the 3-signal technology is better than the 2-signal one of Cytron (real freewheeling for the DC motor). So, the answer is: Of course you can connect to the signals for the Cytron (e. g. at the socket of U1), but you won’t have any need to…
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You’ll need Q8 - it’s the reverse polarity protection. Had the same problem when ordering and I chose this one. It’s mentioned in my BOM as well. Of course you can also solder for yourself when you get the boards.
All other parts are mentioned in this discussion or in the Github doc as well - please have a look.
That makes sense, thanks for your answer. If there is an option to replace with either another ibt or a cytron that’s all I was concerned about.
I am having trouble getting onto JLC today so can’t say about substitute parts in order.
Thanks
Chinease New Year… 
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Ok I will try to chat to get that added. I also am having trouble with their site today. Good to know it can be soldered on later if not. I am trying to order the THT components now. How is the CMPS board connected? Thanks