It is in the early stages of testing, you cannot download it.
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Only for sure about 6/2 valve. Based(37) and BOM, for 6/2 it is necessary erase leter “x” from xU14, and delete “R59”.
Thats all, or I have to for correct function remove “R76” + “F7” like is under the picture?
All necessary outputs for 6/2 valve will be on CN18?
R76 and F7 have to be removed, too. You can do that by editing the BOM or pick-and-place or easily unsolder these parts after delivery.
Yes, all necessary outputs are there: valve left, valve right, 6/2 valve and 0V for the valves
USB in THT BOM for Reichelt is not available. Would this USB work?
We need jumpers correct? Will these jumpers do? What is the most jumpers we would need per board? Thanks
The faster you can get it in the faster you can process it, lol! 
Overkill is farmer engineering move 101, if you can do the task with 5HP, 500Hp should work 100X as good. I have calculations on a napkin that prove this. 
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jumper is ok, USB for the stacked one, too.
if you want to put the Ardusimple into the housing as piggyback, u should mount the single USB:
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Would I have to install FE1.1S to connect to the atmega328 for programming? Or what does the FE1.1S all do. Would be using udp otherwise.
Normally, the answer is yes. There are two steps: The first is the initial programming of the bootloader via P1 (step 6). After that, you would normally access the Atmega via USB, but if you’re sure, you’ll never need USB, you can leave all that stuff unmounted and connect to U3, pins 2, 3, 13 via a board like this one for the time of programming.
You can also use P1 only for programming of the whole firmware, but that’s not supported by the Arduino software AFAIK.
I’m personally keeping my fingers crossed for the new version which reconnects automatically to USB devices after power-cycling.
404 This is not the webpage you were looking for.
nevermind, i got it.
It is posible check this BOM? i let R59, R76 and F7 for manual unsoldering, but few parts are unfortunately still “invertory shortage” over week (daily checking). Can I use some replacement parts, or it is chance to wait missing parts?
Unfortunately there are no 2nd sources for U2 and U18. At least U2 is available from Aliexpress, but soldering needs hot air and liquit soldering paste. Not easy when you do it the first time.
2nd source for U8, Q8, Fx are given in the BOM. There are many. D5…D7 is not mandatory - so no prob
Connections are not mounted by JLC anyway. Don’t now why, but they said the will do some time in th future.
U11: Not available, but only needed for dual CAN
U14: like U2, but much easier to solder
Hope, that helps so far. That’s the situation we’ve right now in all industry - have the same on the job…
Thank you for quick respond. I mean, that I can wait some time for U2 and U18. Soldering small parts not problem, but soldering with hot air and liquid paste is too much.
I hope, that chinese new year ended and they will supply more parts now.
fully understand. unfortunately, U2 is out since end of last year. very common IC to many USB hubs… will you use USB or UDP for autosteer?
I don´t know. I want to use Ardusimplex and this is conected by USB. For autosteer will be used 6/2 valve and hydraulic valve, to tablet I mean USB-C will be beter. I didn´t have expirience with UDP.
so better wait for the availability of U2
I got my u2’s today so I could load ino onto board. Have enc28j60 hooked up and it communicates to aog via udp. Wheel angle sensor reading works in aog. If i shut off board and turn it back on the only way udp connects again, is if i plugin usb for a few seconds, then it keeps working. 
And I cant seem to get motor to work. If i switch it to cytron then it turns one way and doesnt shutoff and does nothing when set to ib2. Anyhelp? Probably something simple
you’re right, likely something simple. I can confirm the behavior with the Cytron settings - had the same here when I forgot to change to IBT mode. That means, the motors drivers are working well, too, in general.
my first hint is to find out, whether it’s a HW or SW issue. The easiest way is to take a meter, put one connection to 0V and check the Atmel outputs D3, D4, D9:
Start with D4, which should be high (about 5V) whenever steering is enabled by AOG. If that is the case, one of the other signals, so either D3 or D9 should be higher than 0V depending on the WAS difference.
If this all is ok, it’s a hardware issue and we’ll go into the details…
the bottom one is +5v when steering is on and go’s to zero when off. Those top two I circled are the only ones that change when I adjust steering angle sensor.
The pins you’ve highlighted belong to the WAS input.
Is the ADC set to single ended or diffential mode? Best is to test with single ended first - that limits the things to look for.
Please remove R97 anyway; was an option for using the ESP32 and should not be mounted.