IF i press the foot switch, so i make an impulse beetween pin 1 and pin 4,
then pin 1 remain to gnd as long as autosteer is enable.
it is correct ?
My electronic skills are very low
BTN8982TAAUMA1 is out of stock, so i think for christmas the pcb will be ready for shipping. 
no, pin1 is Batt+ fused and pin4 is the steer input. Unlike Brian’s suggestion (= switching to GND) I’ve used standard logic: +12V = active. There is a transistor in between for protecting the µC from anythink that may break it. This guy inverts again, so that Brian’s code keeps working.
OMG, all modern power semiconductors seem to be on allocation. Bad news for us as hobbyists…
The only way is to complete the board by hand.
well… no… digikey: 0 in stock, Mouser: 0 in stock… Or you’re very lucky to get some somewhere.
Still waiting for components for pcb v2 from Digikey
By the time stock is back AOG V6 is gonna rock.
Hopefully next winter lots of stock, so i can get multiples of this smd board built.
Hi! Tell me where can i buy a pcb house like yours?
I’ve searched 3 times before and haven’t found it. But now I found 
In the German readme version: Skrzynka aluminiowa obudowa case dla elektroniki DIY skrzynka przyłączowa aluminiowa obudowa głośnika obudowa przyrządu DIY 140*96*33mm|null| - AliExpress
Thanks!
I eventually soldered the USB-C connectors with a solder iron, in fact it was not harder to do than the FE1.1S chip. The USB-C has four feet you can easily solder so it sits tight, only the SMD pins need a bit practicing. Take into account 1 or 2 spares for practice. I used separate solder flux, twizzers, isopropanol (cleaning before and after or when messing with flux), solder wick if you have bridges, an adjustable iron (powerful enough for solder wicking) and a fine cone tip. This was my example: Soldering a USB Type-C port to a PCB using a $6 soldering iron - YouTube
I have not soldered much in my life yet. So if anyone doesn’t want to use solder paste, it’s maybe not easy but certainly doable.
Now onto the arduino firmware and testing!
Hello, really nice work
Is the Motorcontroller included in the PCB
Regards, Peter
yes, that’s one of my reasons to do the design 
Ok cool, but can the PCB handle the phidget motor, is it getting hot? The IBT has a big cooling body on Board. Thats why i wondering a little.
Regards
the drivers used are of the latest generation of Infineon, so very low R_DSon. Should be no prob
It is necessy parts LPC54616J512BD100E? I don´t know order this parts anywhere.
No, not necessary. Only for dual-CAN. I didn’t manage to get some yet either…
Thank you. I glad to heard it. Dual-CAN is not necessary for me.
Today I was receive v.1.7. There is any posibility connect this version to ESP32 for conecting to tablet trough wifi? (I still waiting some parts, but I hope, they arrive soon)
yes, that is possible as described in the Git readme, but you’ll have to find a sketch of your needs and to adapt the pin definition. Please don’t forget to hold the Atmel in reset by setting a jumper
I received v1.8 boards.
There are some problems.
A) In U11 the SMT service had placed ATmega 2560 , need to be removed by hand.
B) D5,D6,D7 CDSOT23-T24CAN is in my warehouse.
C) U9, U10 BTN8982TAAUMA1 is in my warehouse,
D) Weirmuller connector is in ordering.
E) USB1 and USB_aux is in ordering
F) U14 is for 6/2 valve. So it is missing.
G) F1.1s is in ordering.
really wierd… Was hoping you’re the first to receive a board with the NXP controller, but the logo doesn’t match… It’s easy when you use hot air. Also for soldering U9 and U10, especially the heat sink area 
