Unfortunately I don’t think V5 supports the MMA at all. It was used in earlier versions. I ran into the same problem, I started building my pcbv2 with an MMA and shortly after everything moved to the BNO(and they were difficult to get for a while!) You may still be able to get your tractor driving around the field without it but there won’t be any roll correction so it will have to be pretty flat. Someone with more experience than me will have to say for sure. I do think eventually you’ll want the upgrade, from what I understand it is a significant improvement.
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Back in the days of aog v4 I had a mma, but I didn’t use it. Tractors drives very well without roll correction. I would suggest to get autosteer working with your v2 PCB. You can always add the panda functionality that we have today later. Right now my tractor run with a v2 pcb plus panda pcb with a teensy
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Laesvest…I was hoping that would be the case…Been in ESP32 Base station Hell today…If it was easy everybody would be doing it, right?
Thanks
Yes we have a hagie sprayer that I haven’t had time to update. It’s running on about 2nd or 3rd version that came out in 2019. It drives well on nano without PCB, udp, ads, mma, or BNO. Many upgrades since then. It still works, so I haven’t changed it.
Kevin…about 10 years ago my first technology project was a Arduino Mega with small led screen, RTC and small cheap gps…built it to use as speedometer, clock, and GPS for location in apple/cherry orchard. Since we only sprayed at night it was very difficult to know what rows you last sprayed…made it all on bread board and never got to pcb stage…made 2, one in tractor and one in Mule…both still running today, even with a jumper cable or two!! So I understand this electronic game doesn’t always need to be done according to Hoyle…However I have recently learned to not power signal wires and how important reading schematics correctly is…just look at the dead ESP32s on my desk…Monkey See, Monkey Do, can only take a guy so far…lol
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Another Question…
The Good so far: Have new Range Rover WAS/Seat Height sensor installed, Pin5 5V, Pin4 Signal/High and Pin 1 Ground…Testing with multimeter is as Kevin described when measured at green block in steer box where wires from WAS are connected…I have a Green Tractor icon in lower right of screen…my steer box toggles this green icon off and on…I can make an AB line…While driving along AB line the “implement” shows what has been covered…So near yet so far
The Bad is when in the Auto Steer configuration page I get no movement of the green line at the top of the page while turning the wheel…thus can’t set my wheel angles…What haven’t I done? Hopefully just another setting in the setup I have messed.
Thanks
Could you maybe send a pic of your WAS install?
You might already know this but if it is the sensor I am thinking of, it reads over a 90 degree area, that is replicated on the opposite side. So if the sensor is installed in “no man’s land” you won’t get a change in the green bar on top when you move the wheels. I tried to show what I mean with this picture(I know someone else on the discourse has done a much better job than me of explaining this but I can’t seem to find it 
) Try to install it with the sensor as close to 0 as you can get with the wheels forward. Then when you fine-tune zero in the software you will still be able to read both directions as much as possible.
I could be wrong as well but I’m just another rookie trying to help, good luck!
gpierce 720…
Here is what mine looks like…
I hope I can find that post…there is soooo much to learn about! lol
Am hoping my sensor is sitting at about 10 degrees with the wheels straight as shown in the picture and could work as I don’t think at would exceed 45 degrees in either direction…I had no idea these had a “blind spot”, but if they were made to be a seat height sensor a 90 degree range would be sufficient…I might have to unmount it and investigate its “range”. Thanks for the info
Hmmm…that looks to me like that should work. That’s what I would try, unmount it and spin it around to see if you can get the green bar to move, sorry I can’t be more help!
Best would be to put on 5v supply and use a multi meter to check the out put. BTW Most of these canNOT be destroyed by reverse polarity.
EDIT: read back and it looks like you have tried this already.
What is your cpd setting? If few counts per degree green line will be at full with just a little off from zero degree at WAS
looks like my WAS is working …voltages measured on green block on steering box
Still no movement on green slider on auto steer configuration screen
Still have green tractor Icon and gps seems to be working…
When driving with autosteer on the Phidget motor runs constantly??? Does this indicate a known setting error? I’m hoping it is some setting I have done or haven’t done in the Agopengps program.
Back to internet searching…sigh!
Your motor is running constantly due to the extreme was angle error you have. You was voltages seem ok.
I had similar when i built mine, my 1st problem was because i fitted the ads1115 module myself, because of this i needed to add a resistor. After doing this i was a steep closer but still had problems. Turned out the teensy i bought with the headers already soldierd in there was 2 pins with a small blob of solder touching both but i needed a magnifying glass to spot.
You are very close to getting this working now so keep trying
Looking back through your pictures you’ve also used the ads1115 module, does this require an additional resistor like it does on the aio boards
Looking again i can see you possibly have a resistor added already.
Have you been through the steer setup wizzard
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del boy
As you guessed there is a resistor in line already for the AD converter,just swapped the 1115 out in case it was bad and am checking all solders, circuits and resistors looking for the dreaded bad solder…Have been trough steer wizard but without signal from WAS it is meaningless…just grinding it out…so near yet so far…
We have to remember that you use the v2 type pcb. I think your ads1115 does not work. Try to take it off and I am sure you will have the same maximum steer reading in AOG.
Now check carefully that you have mounted correct resistors and condensators in the area around ads1115. Also check soldering. Then get a new ads1115 and put in on the PCB. DO NOT mount the mma
Put on new ads1115, left MMA on and turned down cpd and now it is showing green steering line in Auto steer config drop down…
Now have to learn relationship between the various cpd, gain, etc variables…also have to tension phidget drive wheel against steering wheel so it will keep turning…too many variables with unknown to me relations…lots to absorb…Thanks for all the good suggestions, although alot is still pearls before swine…
Thanks again!
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Will remove MMA for next round of practice…
Great work! This video was a big help for me in figuring out the settings and how to set them, you may have already watched it but hopefully you will find it helpful as well.
It looks like you’re getting close!