Steering Setup Issues

Clarification:the engine was running

Check there’s 5V getting to the WAS, then with a multimeter test the output of the signal wire, this will eliminate whether its the WAS or PCB etc.

I’ve read reports of cheap RQH100030 being faulty so good chance its a faulty WAS.

This is what I think. My RQH100030 gives cero Volt when wheels are straigth. Exactcly between 80-100 degrees. And I have tried already two sensors.


This is what I mean

I have two of those sensors, one has been in use for a long time and I just tried the other one and it too works fine. The behaviour you observed is really odd, wonder if that can happen if incorrectly wired. Larsvest asked about your connection scheme earlier but I cannot find you confirming it (in detail!).

image
Esto es como lee tu sensor máximo 90 grados, es un efecto HALL


Encontré esta imagen de conexión, podrías decir como lo tienes conectado, ya que parece que tiene doble salida y a lo mejor esta mal conectado, otro problema es que no parece segura esa conexión compra un conector pq si tienes un pin flojo va a variar el voltaje.
90° Max

I found this connection image, could you tell how you have it connected, since it seems to have a double output and maybe it is poorly connected, another problem is that this connection does not seem safe, buy a connector because if you have a loose pin, the voltage will vary

2 Likes

Mine is actually the Delphi. They only have 3 pins. I did a bunch of testing with a multimeter. The supply voltage is really stable at 5.00 or 5.01, so i don’t think it’s that. The signal goes from .66 in one direction to 4.66 the other way. At zero degrees it is steady at 2.73. I realize that is slightly off center (should be .5 - 4.5), but surely not too much to center? Also 2.73 is not halfway between .66 and 4.66. I have changed so many settings that my Ackerman may have gotten thrown off. I did notice that somewhere between 3.75 and 4.25 the multimeter would blink 0, so it seemed like there must be a bad spot in my WAS.

I also want to swap the ADC from my combine because i know that system worked.

I’m starting to think the slow change in degrees while parked may be from a very slow leak in my steering valve under the steering wheel. If i turn the tractor off, but leave AOG tied to the battery, it stays totally steady. When i start the tractor, the very slow creep begins.

1 Like

Don’t have a picture
Look Ahead 4
Gain 1
SH 0
Integral 1

Once it finds the line it steers fairly well on a flat field, but crosses the line several times to get there. This was testing at 3.5 mph. I don’t think it’s WAS or ADC. Driving 25 mph on the road WAS stayed very close to 0.

If I turn look ahead up farther then it takes so long to refind the line after going over a terrace. Really I’d like the look ahead under 3

@PotatoFarmer somewhere talked about setting look ahead. He said start low and increase until it smoothes out and restarts zigzagging. Then find the “sweet spot”. This tractor never hits the top zigzag.

Have you already tried with 2 or 2.5 look ahead?

Yes the tractor will zig zag badly if look ahead is too high or too low. The sweet spot is in the middle of the two extremes I use 2.5

If motor low setting is too high it will overcorrect too, zig zagging.

If the bno updating freezes it will zig zag with panda.

Keep derivative at zero until you are happy with tuning

I think i made a bit of a breakthrough, but I don’t understand why it worked. We had noticed one time that it seemed to work better when we accidentally set the antenna at 0 inches forward rather than 55 inches forward. I tried again and it was a decimate improvement, so I decided to try -55 inches. Immediately it started to find and follow the line. I think i must have some other setting reversed, but I don’t know what.

It feels like i can actually work with it now. Before it just went crazy if i backed the look ahead below 3.5-4.

Or was I wrong the whole time that antenna forward from pivot axel is positive?

If the antenna is on the front of the cab, it will be +55

https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=AuXemLC5rTEo6-enoEE51A2

That video shows the difference. At the first, it is set at +55. You can see how far off it is on u-turns and how long it takes to fine the line after jumping a row. It always seemed like it wouldn’t start to turn down the line until it was almost past the line then it would wander back and forth for a long time. If look ahead was under 3, it would almost start oscillating farther and farther rather than getting closer.
You can see how much closer it is after changing to -55.

Just a guess, if -55 is working maybe your steering direction is inverted?

Usually inverted steering would make it lock to one side.

1 Like

I thought of that, but the pwm buttons work right and u-turn and line- jump move the right direction.

When you turn your wheel to the right, does the green WAS output bar also go to the right?

Yes it does

Did you check the values here?

Another thing you should try is using the metric system just to see what happens.

It seems that it is forcing the tractor to make a turn that it cannot make. Max steer angle is 25?

In your photo,

Blue cable is signal
Brown is 5V
Green/yellow is GRD

Is this how you have it wired?

Agree with buying the correct connector, this is the correct one: