I do very little soldering on pcb’s so I’m no expert. I tried to ensure the solder was flowing through the through holes and not just sitting on the underside. Seemed like a reasonable indication to me. I gave the joints about 2 seconds of pre heat, applied the solder then maybe a second before I removed the iron. Something like that anyway.
It’s the silver bearing, lead free, rosin core stuff.
A finger nail trimmer makes a good tool to trim the tails once board is soldered.
Ahh. Always a good idea to avoid the lead-free solder. It’s just not worth the trouble.
Even commercially soldered stuff can have problems with silver/tin solder. Cold joints, tin whiskers, etc.
Have a couple of PCB build questions.
Other than that things went smoothly trying to find stuff and waiting for it to show now, sure hope I ordered the correct version of PCB via Gerber and have the correct schematic for the current build.
If you are a complete rookie like me, couple things I figured out, the parts list is a summary of what you need to order. The components list tells you where they go onto the PCBboard, same parts just different way of showing them. That took me awhile to understand 
Thanks everyone
Yep the big space should be there for the Cytron motor driver. The schematic is a wiring diagram so not really a true layout.
If you plan to go hydraulic to the best of my knowledge you can still go with a Cytron, IBT-2 is another option.
3a) I believe you want the Spark Fun version as that’s the one that fits on the board. Take a look at @darrenjlobb 's video.
3b) best WAS for 4WD check with @Apm (Andrew Martin) there are also some install pictures on the combine forum. I don’t think that you really need a special one so long as you can make it use the full range of motion.
Yep a wire works. I used a clipped leg off a diode or resistor.
I’m not sure what that is. That’s found in the component list and not the parts list. I think you can ignore that.
Yep you’ll need Part 1212-1002ND That’s what the Opto-Isolators/couplers plug into. 3 of them I believe.
Part A135912-ND is a 7 position screw terminal and that’s where you can connect your WAS etc. You could replace these with pins if you wish.
Thanks for the reply. It’s all starting to make a little more sense now. I have everything ordered except a GPS, I ordered a tinkerforge imu brick 2 so probably going with a single GPS and not a dual that may be in the future. For a gps, could I use a spark fun Zed f9p board or is the arsdusimple rtk2b the way to go?
With the imu brick 2 going to computer by USB, and the nano as well as the GPS will they all work through a USB hub? Should I look at ethernet shield for the nano or does that change much? My thought was maybe 2 boxes in cab, 1 with the PCB and another box with the gps and a hub in it somewhere in cab that brick, gps and nano all plug into then one USB from that to laptop.
Sure you can use a spark fun f9p board although the Ardusimple board will be simpler, it works right out of the box no config necessary. They should work via a USB hub although I might suggest a powered hub. UDP is a bit more set up initially but once it’s up and running you can plug and unplug stuff without any issue. Personally I’ve only ever done the USB connections.
I don’t see any issues with 2 boxes.
Are there concerns with USB and starting sequences or unplugging and plugging? My thought was all things into a hub and then only thing getting unplugged would be 1 connection to laptop.
Thanks for your help
I found usb a real pain early on, as was contantly swapping between AOG & arduino updating the ino as it was tweeked to suit our machines. May not be an issue in V4. Even so I think UDP is the better option for the future.
If I do UDP do I need an ethernet port on laptop?
Ardusimple must be configured if used with aog autosteering. It outputs nmea 1hz as default. Easy job though.
This one got me when I started!! Also, by default it sends way too much data to AOG.
Yes, but can always use a USB ethernet interface if you dont have one…
If you go the dual antenna route ZED-F9P RTK InCase PIN GNSS receiver board with SMA Base or Rover - Eltehs GNSS OEM Store is cheaper than ardusimple!
They also have one with usb plug already mounted ZED-F9P RTK GNSS receiver board with SMA Base or Rover - Eltehs GNSS OEM Store
Lately I’ve had all kinds of mechanical reliability issues with USB ports. I’m starting to think I’m either cursed or USB just sucks as far as a reliable interface goes. On my laptop, bouncing around in a tractor with various things attached to it has now rendered 2 of my 3 USB ports mostly inoperative. Pretty sure a connection is cracked from mechanical stress on the motherboard. Then I’ve had 3 different micro usb cords stop making good connection in devices. Also had a usb extension cable I was using that won’t connect reliably anymore if the cord plugged into it wiggles even slightly.
And finally just now I found one of my Arduinos (not an Uno, but a more expensive Due) had the micro USB plug peel up off the board a bit, causing it to lose the ground connection. Turns out it was a cold solder joint that broke free. I soldered it back down with good old lead solder.
After seeing this on a professionally-soldered and manufactured board, I don’t think I’ll ever touch lead-free solder! Especially on a board in a tractor. Anyway, just venting.
I do like the ethernet connection for sure.
Well, I was in IT for 15 years before I came back to farming. I had a love/hate relationship with ethernet. Whoever designed the RJ45 system was sheer genius. And simultaneously be cursed for having fragile locking tabs that break off so easily!
That said, I was recently introduced to industrial ethernet connectors called M12.
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=industrial+ethernet+m12
Except if the pins ever bend…
Be careful of reverse supply polarity.
It burns here ! But can be easily repair with a wire . And good for me no other damage.