Understood. I’ll try to create a bushing in the program so that it can be inserted inside, according to the size of my engine.
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Just throwing up an idea. Would it be possible to change the shapes where there is fillets or clear round protrusion to chamfers or shapes which are in 45 deg angle? Personally when I’m modelling something for a 3d printer, I try to avoid fillets (the fillets look nice, I know 
). You end up needing less supports and ofter the surface looks better also. The possible issues are normally in the beginning of the fillet or in the end, when even with the supports the printing happens almost in midair. I guess the 45 deg is pretty ok for any printer.
Support material I just see as part of the 3D process. Also it helps make the parts look like its almost impossible to build with woodworking tools. Support material attaches to the models underside so surface quality is not an issue.
Some of the complexity is I admit is just to make it look really nifty, to show that 3D printing can pull off what normal hand tools cannot. Some of the complexity actually serves a purpose. Some of it is just from trying to cram everything into as tight a space as possible.
My Grandpa built everything out of blocks of wood, so everything he built looked like a block of wood. 3D printing allows you to do almost anything shapely, so why try to recreate Grandpas wood?
Convincing argument. Works for me. 
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I have updated the the manual with yet more pictures yesterday. Finally have the parts and hardware ready to make the assembly video this week.
I think i have this printer figured out finally, just have to figure out whats up with the first couple layers on TPU. But the rest has a beautiful finish.
Having issues posting the pic? Must be having site issues? Strange all of a sudden it says its to large off the iphone?
Some assembly videos
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What hardness TPU do you use for the motor gear?
It does not seem to state the hardness on the label, But the TPU is in the link below. When I print the small gear it is very comparable to a hockey puck.
Which 3D printers are people using and what would be an approximate cost in consumables to print a gear set and motor holder
moi ender 3 pro et une bobine te suffit 23€
It will depend on your print settings, but if you printed everything solid (100% infill) with supports, but no rafts then it would use about 720g of PETG and 40g of TPU to print one set, though you could probably get the PETG parts down to under 500g without compromising their strength. These figures are just a quick estimate using PrusaSlicer for a Prusa mk3.
The 750g spools of PETG I normally use cost around £14 when bought during sales. The TPU I normally use is about twice the price per gram, but then a lot less of that is needed.
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With the phidget motor can you steer manually with the gears meshed together or do I need to make a linkage to separate the gears when steering manually
If you do the freewheel modification to the cytron gears can be left engaged all the time. It is still nice to be able to disengage them on longer road trips.
Adding a steering feedback sensor like the ACS712 or pressure sensor as well with the cytron modification makes autosteer disengagement very user friendly.
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About to have my first go at 3D printing, what % infill are you printing the segmented big gear at
He has a very nice instruction manual on his google drive link
“Large Steering Gear - PETG 60% Tri-Hexagon infill 0.4 or 0.6mm Nozzle 3.6mm Wall 2mm top/bottom Ensure Solid Teeth. Print orientation “F” up”
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Yes the manual has suggested settings for the models. Also fitment and 3D printing tips.
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I have about got it figured out but how do you make the teeth solid using Creality slicer 4.8
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Yes look at your preview in the slicer, there should be no giant air hole in the teeth. Add additional wall thickness. Or use the suggested wall thickness settings.
It may seem like a lot of plastic but it has to fight the sun.
Hopefully you have success.
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Any tips on printing with petg.
My first print put a blob on the third tooth printing and loosened it off the bed with nozzle temp @240 and bed @75 and was very stringy
Second attempt with nozzle @235 bed @70 and print speed @45mm/second looked better although still stringy but just been to check and it has printed about 2mm of depth then come off the table again
Also I have the nozzle set the thickness of one sheet of A4 paper off the bed and 50% fan speed