About to have my first go at 3D printing, what % infill are you printing the segmented big gear at
He has a very nice instruction manual on his google drive link
“Large Steering Gear - PETG 60% Tri-Hexagon infill 0.4 or 0.6mm Nozzle 3.6mm Wall 2mm top/bottom Ensure Solid Teeth. Print orientation “F” up”
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Yes the manual has suggested settings for the models. Also fitment and 3D printing tips.
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I have about got it figured out but how do you make the teeth solid using Creality slicer 4.8
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Yes look at your preview in the slicer, there should be no giant air hole in the teeth. Add additional wall thickness. Or use the suggested wall thickness settings.
It may seem like a lot of plastic but it has to fight the sun.
Hopefully you have success.
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Any tips on printing with petg.
My first print put a blob on the third tooth printing and loosened it off the bed with nozzle temp @240 and bed @75 and was very stringy
Second attempt with nozzle @235 bed @70 and print speed @45mm/second looked better although still stringy but just been to check and it has printed about 2mm of depth then come off the table again
Also I have the nozzle set the thickness of one sheet of A4 paper off the bed and 50% fan speed
Try painters tape on the bed. Some have good luck with glue stick (the kind children use at school), or hair spray on the bed.
For build plate adhesion use the “raft” mode. Haven’t had a single problem with Pteg since I started using it.
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A combination of the two can be quite suitable for easy replacement
and this
Good idea, but really noisy. It’s better use some TPU gears. The elektro magnet coupling (kendrion) is about EUR 180!
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In the instruction booklet it describes using birm, Cura will make a few outline passes before printing the main object.
When checking bed level, check all four corners then the middle. Also check after printing an object that it all returns to zero.
Sometimes the motors will miss a step and leave a side out of whack.
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I thought of the working principle of the starter.
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Yeah it kind of looks like a starter already,
It would be a feat to do, but a solenoid throwing the gear in would be a way to fully disengage the motor. I wonder how many cycles it would go through on an average field?
The resistance of the motor does not seem like too much with just the cytron mod, but there still is a bit of a difference compared to fully decoupled.
Or with a micro toothed gear setup like @bricbric it would only have to make a small gap to disengage.
Could you share the spec’s for your large gear? I’m going to model one up for my versatile that only has a two spoke steering wheel.
Curious in the size and angles and then I can just enter it into GF gear generator
small gear ( or friction ) works on an other concept
as argument
- yes as @PotatoFarmer say smal gap you can disconnect it
- you can also reconnect it as you want without checking syncro
- allignement of the gear is not perfectly required
- you can also use the slippage in case of emergency taht you pull the steering wheel
but as important and negative point
- you need to aply pressure on the gear
- the slippage can exist if you want to rotate quicly
- the small gear is the fuse of the sytem
- better to use different component for the steering gear and the motor gear
-probably consume more energy than gear ( effect of puncture tyre)
Now i do since 2 years with my concept:
Stainless gear and Tpu motor gear : I m satisfied since my initial concept to the last one
I do for me and friends more than 10 diffrerent tractor and havester of differents brands , and probably more with internet sharing
I think it this is not a solution for evrybody but one solution with some advantage and drawbacks
and i like the concept of universal fit clutch of @PotatoFarmer do and promote
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This is embarrassing but I only have partial records of the gear setup, the gear generator I used did not store the data. Currently trying to back these numbers out. 
Ive also had brought to my attention a limitation on 1990’s deeres with the 45 degree wheel spokes.
So this design is easier but still has some issues. but it does cover a lot.
Do you have a 3D printer you would recommend to make these parts? I don’t have one and no experience. Would $800 be enough to buy a good one? I’m in the USA.
Ender 3 is good and cheap, around 200. It is suitable for AOG parts.
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I reverse engineered it and came up with the following
Module 3.25mm
25mm height
20 pressure angle
20 degree Helix angle
Also the big gear rubs against my LH reverser in my Case STX so I’ll have to try and design one for it as well. The steering column’s are huge in the power shift cases so I’ll have to make to big gear larger than 81 teeth
@John John Ditto on the ender 3, I might buy one since I’m printing so much on my Chiron and most parts are small.
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