Hi all, i am thinking about buying a 3d printer.
Anyone has a good type i should buy that can print the all in one cases and the motor steering parts?
Regards,
Ray
I’ve a Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, it seems pretty decent. Big enough to do the box and the parts. Not overly expensive either.
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Looks good and indeed not to expensive for a hobby 
Thanks.
I suggest a Prusa MK3. Of all the printers I work with it is the most dependable and least irritating.
I haven’t printed the one piece ring gear so I’m not sure if that fits.
1000 euro is a bit to much
One thing tho, it needs modded to print the small TPU gear wheel, I’ve not tried that yet tho. Friend with direct-drive might print that for me (if I ever need it, all hydraulic and CAN so far)
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Fair enough, just sharing my experience.
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Sovol sv03
I am a big fan of the ender 3’s. I also recommend upgrading the extruder and hotend to the micro Swiss direct drive with all metal extruder. It allows me to print higher end filaments such as nylon, pc, and flexible ones like TPU.
I am a total noob with 3d printers.
So will learn alot and may ask alot.
But orderd so we will see soon.
Thnx for your anwsers.
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Well i am printing my 1st rabbit at the moment.
Any one know why this happens between ears?
I use pteg nozzle temp 245, plate temp 65.
Print speed 100
Before i print end plate for micro i want to be sure it works good.
Was there a picture?
I seem to get decent results with nozzle 240 and bed temperature of 70.
I think 100 is too fast. My slicer is set to do the first layer (perimeters and infill) at about 25 mm/s. Although that makes for a very slow first layer, PETG requires a really good first layer for success in my experience. Then after that my slicer goes to 60 mm/s, except for the outer-most perimeter which is 45.
Also I’m using whatever settings were default in my PETG profile for retraction, but if you get too much stringing and blobbing on the nozzle, that could be reduced perhaps, but I’m not too experienced in tuning.
Also I just got a hold of a Garolite print surface and have to say I’m impressed so far. It’s basically fiberglass printed circuit board. PETG sticks well to it without any treatment other than cleaning usually. And only a bit of cool down required and it releases easily. Let it get cold and the piece just releases on its own. I still have occasional problems with things unsticking. PETG is not quite as easy to use as PLA. Beats my glass surface, though, and better than what my Ender 3 came with.
From what I read you can increase retraction in increments of 1mm until the stringing stops. But I suspect 100 is just too fast.
I will try with lower speed and see where i cab change somw settings. Total noob here haha
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After just praising Garolite as a print surface, I just had two attempts in a row that failed to stick well. Ha. Maybe I need to buff the surface a bit. ahh well.
You using Cura? I think it has a way of searching for settings. Just search for retract.
But even with some stringing, the test print looks pretty solid. Things like the ears are always hard for printers to do. I think your gear will come out fine. Maybe just give it a go with your current settings and see what happens.
I use creality and insert a 3d file and then press slice upload and print
I’ve not used the Creality slicer before. But I do notice it has an edit button below the the settings on the right-hand side and in there if you click the advanced button you can get access to all the settings, and it has a search box where you can type “retract” and see what the settings are. My copy of the Creality slicer does not have a PETG profile currently so I cannot see what the defaults are.
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