Thanks! Youâre right, I didnât need the modular ADS after all. I had the wiring mixed up going to the WAS. Working now.
biggest mistake everyone does 
what am I going to do with 5?! you have neighbors
So I have some questions regarding the relay freewheel mod. So with the current pinout used for this, we have pin30/pin5 ampseal, pin85/pin7 ampseal, pin86/pin21 ampseal, pin87/electric motor left. So how do you know what electric motor left is, and if you hook it up that way, what happens if you invert direction in agio?
It doesnât matter if itâs left or right, one motor wire, pin 5 for example goes through relay, the other goes direct from pin 6 to electric motor.
Could be pin 6 through relay and pin 5 wired direct, your just using relay to break the circuit in one of the motor wires.
But 5 and 6 are the motor leads, so you cant hook them both to the relay can you? I just cant wrap my mind around this, pin 5 and 6 power my motor, so the diagram calls pin 6 electric motor left, and pin five goes to pin 30 on the relayâŚ
Ok, i think i got it 
Have a couple questions. Does it matter which side of the tractor the WAS is installed? I installed it on the front left.
I went for a test run and everything seemed to be communicating and working properly including the motor, but now the motor wonât work. Any ideas on what it could be. Iâm still getting power to the cytron and donât see anything burnt on the board.
Do you mean the motor was originally working but stopped working when you put the was on the left hand side?
Ive seen some pictures of installs with the was on the left.
When you press the ma mb buttons does that fire the motor up? This tests the motor is getting power.
If so turn on the pwm drive function in the steer screen and toggle left to right with the arrows. The ma mb lights on the cytron should light up and the motor will spin if everything is talking .
Is your was setup correctly, does the wheels on the screen move the correct way when you turn the wheels.
Check what steer activation you have, 'none switch or button â
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Hello,
First thank you to share all those information and sorry for my English, Iâm FrenchâŚ
Iâm begging the mounting of a standard all-in-one PCB and I have some questions :
- if the heatsink is not at the ground, itâs OK to touch with the transistor, no need to âunplugâ the heatsink right?
-about the right side of the PCB âmoving baseâ. I saw that there are some holes in the middle which are marked â1kâ on the opposite side. Do I need to solder 3 resistances? Same question about the capacity C14?
-concerning the ads115, I read that mine should already be on the PCB, but Iâve no resistance there, is it OK without resistance?
Thank you!
You have the smd mount chip, no need for an ads1115. Im using a phidgets motor and single/imu, and i didnt add any resistors.Someone else will chime in on the other questions.
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Got the same board as me and i donât have any resistors fitted there and mine works. Thats where your f9p goes.
As said you already have the ads1115 on the board so your good there
Ok nice!
Thanks for your answer.
And what about the heatsink? I think itâs much better if the transistor is in contact with it to dissipate the heat, but Iâve read that sometimes if itâs in touch, there is a shortcutâŚ
I will probably have others question in the few next days, I go step by step reading the official AOG wiki.
Ive spent alot of time looking at pictures of others standard aio pcbs and the majority have the heatsink touching. Weather this is right or not i dont know. Its easy enough to separate them slightly.
They have been comments about it shorting out if touching.
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The transistor is supposed to touch the heatsink but the heatsink is not supposed to touch the cytron.
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You can use a thermal grease
The thermal pads are size TO-220 if you want an isolator and use the thermal grease like wland said. After del_boys extra crispy board I put one in just as a precaution.
Thanks for the help/suggestions! Turns out I must have changed the activation for the motor to âswitchâ (I have none) Once I switched it back was up and running. Was in a panic trying to get it going for planting. Just planted the first field and all went well! Now just have to fine tune the end-of-row turning.
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Hello,
I have a V2.4 pcb that was acting up lately and quit working a few days ago. I found the 3.3v regulator that powers the f9p is burnt. I think the teensy is dead as well ( it is not recognized by Arduino IDE and pushing the programming button doesnât do anything) so I ordered another one and waiting for it to arrive.
I changed it with another from another board that I had and tested the power at the F9p and I am getting 3.3v which is the right voltage. Any idea what might have caused the regulator to burn? Is there any other tests to do to check for to prevent this from happening again?
What might have caused the teensy to fail?
I tested the power at the teensy header and it is 5v as it is supposed to be, is there any other tests that I can do to prevent the new teensey from falling?
What is the part number for this 3.3v regulator so I can order one more just in case?
Thanks for the help.
