All in One PCB

You could probably get the board working by adding a few jumpers.

A jumper placed here would get power to canbus and switches.

This jumper would get power to the ADS1115 and should get autosteer working

Do note that this fix doesn’t fix everything and might not get autosteer working. You will still be missing alot of the boards functionality like current sense, speedpulse, faceplate leds, and many more. It also could potentially damage other components as well so take this with a grain of salt

@JensKnudsen Did you mess with the gerber files?

I ordered back in juli and all 5 was ok, I dit it exactly the same way this time, the same gerber file and all 5 dont work, maybe JLPCB just had a bad day. I give up and wait for the next board

I gave it a try, I give up and just glad I didn’t order 10 :blush:

You should definitely file a complaint with JLCPCB.

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Hello , i have question, when you slice enclousure , is this the right rotation of printing?

Your top should be the bottom. Print it like a bowl / vase.

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rotate it 180
as said like a bowl.
and make a suport because of botum edge is rounded.

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Anyone know what this arrow indicates on the micro enclosure (post 5)?

I figured “point this end up” but the logo is upside down then

I think this should point forward(direction when vehicle moves forward) because of IMU

I realize many are moving to the newer v4x AIO. I’m just getting to the 5 ver 2.4 that I got last year. I’ve been trying to get some advice with soldering the missing components on the telegram channel, but no response. Is this because the ver 2.4 board is problematic? I’m almost ready to put everything together. Is this board going to be okay for simple guidance?

There’s nothing wrong with the 2.4, that can’t be fixed. v2.x board issues fixes · AgHardware/Boards Wiki · GitHub
But I don’t know on the missing components.
Here’s the link to the message on the telegram chat for the board experts Telegram: Contact @agopengpsinternational

I think it’s more that no one is asking v2.4 questions anymore because anyone that’s ordered v2.4 has already got them fully assembled and installed in a tractor. I’ve got 2x v2.4 in tractors myself, they work just fine.

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I’m just finally getting to them and I know they didn’t have all the pieces soldered on. I have a picture in the telegram chat that I was hoping to get some clarification. Otherwise I think I’m good just reading the discourse and github files.

I also have around 30 machines running them.

Steering kickout doesn’t work with 12V motors but for hydraulic installation it’s great.

2 layer V4 is definitely nicer but wouldn’t throw out any V2 board because of it.

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Also, the dual-CANBUS but also analog WAS is still a useful option

My steering (current) kick out works with a 12v motor on a v2.4. What’s stopping yours from working?

I have 2 identical 2.4 Std all in one boards that I have built, and everything works except the current kick out. I have the 24 volt motor, and using a remote steer switch. I made the modifications to the cytron to allow the current disconnect. When I set the amperage very low, I’ve had it seeming to kickout, and reengage immediately, and repeat that So when I grabbed the wheel, it would jerk, and beep at me.

I already had the trace cut, and a 330 ohm resister in place as a fix to the original v2.4 board problems. Then I saw Davidwedel’s post above regarding v2. board fixes This post recommends a 1k resistor instead of a 330 ohm, so I replaced mine. Now I can’t seem to get the cytron to send anything to the motor. There’s power at the cytron. Everything is green in AgIO, The steer switch still shows a change in the PWM value on the screen when I switch it off and on.
What are others using for that resistor? Any other advice?


Check the voltage on the white jumper wire at the Cytron when steering is on & off.

With regards to the reengaging immediately, are you using a steer “switch”? That mode has a glitch in the official firmware that rengages once the fault condition is gone (ie over current went away because autosteer turned off)

m_elias, thanks for the response. I will check the voltage as you mentioned, and thankfully I have a second board that I can compare it with.

With regard to the code problem when using the switch, I found a topic on it.
https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/reactivate-auto-steer-switch-after-current-limit/8526/5

I will try that code fix, and/or convert to using a button instead of a switch.