Good idea keeps min amps on the board
Unfortunately PWM2 triggers “lock” often around 0 %, thats the reason why a Mosfet is used.
Or better adjust code and use A14 as 5v output when engage button is pushed
Hello, thank you.
The idea of the 12v automotive relay reassures me more than using a “Chinese” 5v relay as can be used with the Arduino for example. These 12v relays are reliable and proven for many years. 
I don’t quite understand the story of the lock around 0%… 
The butt is not to bypass the MOSFET using the PWM2 output to directly power the 12v relay BUT to use the MOSFET output to operate the relay.
My knowledge of electronics is limited but for me that the MOSFET directly powers my 6/2 valve or powers the relay coil which powers my 6/2 with a 12v power supply directly from the battery does not change much in the operation of the MOSFET Nope.?
In addition, with less power going through the MOSFET, there should be less heat to dissipate, right?
… this appear when ON conditions are not meet, like the min speed. (if you have autosteer activated!)
May be there is also an influence with a poor GPS-Signal, because speed limit in .ino is =0,1 km/h. GPS speed signal “jumps” if the tractor is standstill.
see also:
Hydraulik Installation / safety - Hardware - AgOpenGPS
They are all Chinese relays, just the big black ones that fit a socket are rated for 30A, the blue ones are rated for 10A. They both need to be de-rated by over half if switching an inductive load. They both can have a slightly longer service life switching a coil with a substantial fly back diode installed.
Please do not confuse electrical service rating and quality, with country of manufacture.
lessons learnt today (standard V2.4, ampseal connector):
-
solder GND pins of the ampseal properly through all layers. a WAS GND pin on one of my standard ampseal boards was not connected to the upper copper layers of the PCB and WAS didn’t work (always 5V on WAS_H) no matter what angle I set.
-
the heatsink at the LOCK mosfet is connected to ground and will create a short circuit when heatsink + mosfet touch while motor/valve is active. If you need the LOCK, make sure to disconnect its heatsink from the PCB and bolt it to the mosfet with some offset to the board. if you don’t need LOCK, just remove the heatsink (tell me if I’m wrong!)
3 Likes
Could you add a hole to the case cap and glue on a plastic cover to see the LEDs? Or would that cause other problems?
I wonder if it would be sufficient to add holes in the case cap and then fill the holes with hot glue. Like a window made of hot glue.
The Google drive links at the top of the page have been updated with the latest fixes.
Only remaining change is to redo the board layout to make the traces to the Cytron heavier for the higher amperage motors.
It will be later in the winter before we have time to make that change.
5 Likes
Thanks.
Could ordering with 1oz inner layer be a fix for the mean time?
Neat. What filament did you use?
Was it intentional to be able to see the LEDs or a happy accident?
I used https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07THZMPBF
Printed red faceplates too, and you can just about see the lights through them - thought this would make life a little easier tho.
link for the pigtail SMA cables that are needed for the standard V2.4 board (if you want to use @Vili box or hammond box with antenna connectors on the front plate): Kabel Sma Stekker Naar Sma Male Connector Kabel RG316 Rf Jumper Pigtail Man vrouw Haakse Rf coaxiale|Connectoren| - AliExpress
thanks @m_elias !
Do you need these for both standard and micro versions?
only for the standard. on the micro boards, you can directly plug the antenna cables to the receivers
otherwise you can make holes and insert a plastic rod by bending it if necessary https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08F4W85QQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
