If you want the newer version of the micro with heavier traces, you can use the link below. This version has no CAN bus and the Danfoss items are deselected. It is a more basic version for motors and Baraki style valves1zrq5fCmgnHIgDfPKuzCoCPbCredL4bm6. There is a post below with instructions.
NO more solder jumpers. The google link has been updated https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1usCFJvlXnaOCqDf0f4bx8o_yOgFUw9XZ?usp=share_link
Leave everything at default and hit “Confirm”
At that point you may be asked to sign in or create an account. Make sure you use a good email that you check regularly. JLC is good to ask questions if needed.
After you are finished setting up your account, then hit “confirm” again
This will bring you to the BOM selection page. Look it over and make sure that the parts you need are selected and in stock.
We will get better instructions together for this in the future. (I Hope)
If a needed part isn’t in stock, you can try again in a few days, or just add the part as through hole.
Click “Next”
It will show a preview of the boards and part placement.
From there you can add it to your cart and check out.
P.S.
You can order 5 boards and only have 2 of them assembled. It really doesn’t save much money.
I have ordered 20 of each PCB with Ampseal 23 connector so anyone from Canada (and maybe USA) interested in only 1 or 2 let me know in a private message. I’m not sure yet what the price will be, depends on what you all need/want as there are some parts that’ll need hand soldering to complete the PCB. I’m also still working on figuring out a complete box/PCB/harness kit that might include a custom CNC end plate for a Hammond box. Once @Vili has the CAD drawings finished I want to ask a laser or water cutter to quote me on a bunch.
Do I need to match it with the tablet, motor, antenna, or other parts I’ve already purchased? Or if this is the first full unit I’m building should I just go with the AMP to leave options open?
The MD13S blocks a free turn of the connected motor. I know two possibilities to “disable” this. Use a relay to disconnect power line to the motor or treat the hack discribed in this forum to the cytron board. How have I to handle this with the all in one board?
This new AiO board has the option of connecting pwm2 to the cytron for the freewheeling mod. There also is an on board solder jumper to select either the PCB’s 12v or an external power supply (24v for example) for the cytron which could include an external relay.
The Standard box exceeds the printing place of my printer, which is about 20 cm. What do you think about to cut the box for example at a height of 18 cm? The separeted side of the box is be “melted” with the front panel. The connection of box and modified front panel is done by 4 maschine screws.
Demand regarding your second sentence. So we would not disconnect powerline between motor and cytron, we would disconnect powerline to the cytron, right? There are no problems expected if the cytron is turning on/off all the time (small fields, no uturn is used)?
Now that I think about that some more, I believe the cytron would still cause braking on the motor so you should instead use an external relay between the cytron and motor like most people are doing. I think the LOCK output can control an external relay.
