All in One PCB

It bothers me that the hands are not taken in one piece. The Teensy was difficult to put on. The distance in a collision is always a little too big. I will solder the Haeder myself next time.

I agree, but for the Teensy I find if you break the headers according to the PCB sockets it works much better.

Did anybody tried out a pure through hole variant already ?

So my plan is to mount BNO on the cover of the box like this:

Then it is horizontal when box itself is vertical. Just a shame to have those annoying extra wires in there since everything else is so nicely mounted on the PCB.

Anyone know if it ok to drill those holes in the corner of the BNO little bigger? At the moment my plastic screws don’t fit them so I’d need to make them bit bigger.

I my self would just glue it there. Then its removeble and no holes are made i front panel.

Double sided tape is awesome.

Not sure if Gorilla double sided tape is available worldwide but it is great for add ons.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-heavy-duty-mounting-tape-black/1001102834?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00%20-%20E-Comm_GGL_Shopping_PLA_EN_All%20Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-298555526333&gbraid=0AAAAADhdmz7eIg46ermCmGDHianqMqp8Z&gbraid=0AAAAADhdmz7eIg46ermCmGDHianqMqp8Z&gclid=Cj0KCQiA54KfBhCKARIsAJzSrdrZogPnF1uMBVPe2-rnENnQLR5BrgQ34f2WDZGsnRG8Ljl1E52JVTwaApLzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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I use a tape that is made to fix trim on cars. That is what holds my WAS in place - 3 yrs now. Awesome stuff get it at auto parts store.

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In Europe , I used this to fix the bn0 flat on the pcb… very strong.

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I would like to buy one of your pcbs, I’m in Québec. Do you have any left?

I’m all out right now. I’m not sure when/if I’ll order more before spring, I kind of need to focus on other projects now.

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Hi, I´ve been dreaming about Agopengps autosteer system for couple of years and I finally have begun ordering parts to make it happen. My all in one pcbs are ready to be shipped from JLCPCB, their library was out of these parts. I tried to find this info obout missing parts from the forum and the wiki, but found these to be under TODOs, so here we come with quostions. Maybe the answers coul be put in the wiki? Which of them are CRITICAL for the board to work at all? What I could use to replace them? Where to source from? What Agopengps functions need which parts or what functions I will be missing with the parts I cannot source from anywhere? I know the last part of the list was supposed to be sourced from elsewhere anyway, CN2 to U901 are harder to find and there are not enough info for electrical newbie to find out what are the critical charteristics in the components to look at in replacements. I hope this makes sense and the answers would help many more and be easily found. Thanks for the inspiringly awesome community you have here and the program you have developed! It gives hope for a better future.

Welcome to AgOpenGps!

You need to give more details of how you intend to steer your tractor, using a electric motor like a Phidgets with cogs or a foam wheel, using hydraulic valve or perhaps tractor is steer ready or even using Canbus?

CN2 you need for the Teensy Ethernet, an example of a suitable part:

U14 is only need for a Danfoss valve, you probably don’t need this.

U10, U19, U9 and U11 are just standard 2.54mm female headers, they are 4 position, you can order 4 position ones but it can be easier to use longer ones, but I cannot see your board so cannot say for sure what lengths you need.
U8, U903 you are again female headers, they specify 20 position, I think its actually 24 position you want, these will be for the Teensy headers. JLCPCB will use a 20 position plus a 4 positon to make 24, but this makes it harder to insert the Teensy. Example of 24 pin header:

C24 and C25 are 25V 1000uF Capacitors, for example:

U16 and U17 are Canbus chips, you probably don’t need these but we need to know your intended setup.
D7 is just a diode.
U7 is a chip for generating speed pulse, again you probably don’t need this.
U901 you almost certainly dont need,its for ByNav.
The rest JLCPCB don’t stock so you just buy from Digikey or Mouser etc.
Cytron MD13S is out of stock in most places at the moment.

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Thank you, this was exactly the kind of answer I was expecting. I intentionally didn´t state my specs to have a more universal answer and I don´t exactly know the future specs as we are changing our tractors soon. What I know of is that I will be using phidgets with 3d printed holder, cytron mod, and the automatic switch of mod which code I do not remember atm and teensy ethernet is like ly be needed too. This kind of extra explanation for all those parts in the full list would most likely be much appreciated for those after me who face the same kind of uncertainties.

Teensy Ethernet is standard on the All in One so is by default.

The parts all have part numbers which a quick google will bring up the spec sheet.

If you open the schematic file in EasyEDA you can click on the parts to give part number and spec, it also has the part number for the THT substitutes as well (although I did notice for example for the C24 and C25 this was quite a lower spec than the SMD, I think it was only 16V in that instance).

So in your example above, its just two capacitors, the ones I linked are fine, a diode (will find you a part shortly) and some 2.54mm female headers.
U23 is a screw terminal, in many instances its perhaps more robust to solder cables in the holes instead, you will need this for the 24V in for the Phidgets motor.

This is the Ampseal socket you need:

also keep in mind that having a 25V 1000uF capacitor from Toshiba or a 30V 1000uF capacitor from Panasonic won’t make a big difference in our case.
Having the ChingLin or LingChin headers won’t be either. You can easily find replacements. (And it’s much easier to spend an extra hour finding the right part there then spending an extra hour ordering the right part then doing the soldering.)

So connectors, capacitors, resistors are pretty easy to find replacement. As there are many companies producing them.

With that being said for the octocouplers it’s a lot harder.

These are the ones I selected. The WAS + motor + Dual GPS all seems to be working fine on my board. (You can find picture of it above in this thread.)
unselected_parts.xlsx (4.9 KB)
bom.xlsx (10.5 KB)

With that being said treat this file as anything you download from the internet. (I’d not mind someone to confirm if these were good choices as replacements.)

CNY172M I still had to order separately (maybe there’s a replacement for that too)
I did check the BOM missing and looked up all those (as my board seems to be in real good shape)
These are the things you could consider adding but I think most of us will not need these:

U14 → TLC081IP → DIP-8_L10.1-W6.3-P2.54-LS7.6-BL Danfoss only
U901 → MP1584EN → MP1584EN ByNav only

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Alright, I trid now with EasyEDA and it opens the micro files in Support/easyeda, but there is no .json formatted files for the standard board in the folders. I probably should have said I am using the standard board… Google didn´t give me much about some of those components, but you did much better :wink: Thanks again!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wZPJ1Bc-r3yLj9BFOFB5pJAMixGKVqoV?usp=share_link

What are the current limitations for the lock port used for driving 6/2 valve? Is it possible to supply steady 3,5 Amps under working enviroment?

For to be safe i use relay to take care of those valves. And with lock i control relay

I’m interrested in a plain Micro PCB for soldering a through hole variant. If anybody has one left (EU-Region) please write me a private message.