Remove the IMU from the board and make sure your antennas have good view of the sky.
The heading offset should be 0 in AgOpen
Don’t select dual as IMU
Hi, do I need CMPS14 if I have BNO085?
No bno is better then cmps
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I think the AiO was designed for 20mA sensor. It needs modifying for 0-5V sensors
I think so but they need to go in slightly different? For the standard PCB it’s these two as marked.
For 0-5V input, use a 1:2 ratio (eg, R1 3k, R2 6k or 5k to be safe)
For 0-12V input, use a 3:1 ratio (eg, R1 6k, R2 2k)
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For 0-5V input, use a 1:2 ratio (eg, R1 3k, R2 6k or 5k to be safe)
For 0-12V input, use a 3:1 ratio (eg, R1 6k, R2 2k)
For the standard ampseal Aio where are board checks to be performed before mounting Teensy or micros? On the standard board prior to Jan 6 are the Left and Right jumper pins labeled correctly?
Thanks
I think that only shows it for the micros. Wondering if there would be something similar for the standard ampseal aio
I had done basic testing on your two PCBs. And the Right/Left labels are correct on my modified PCB.
Hello. Tell me what could be. Tested today micro with IMU. When driving north, it rides fine. When I go back, there is no straightness to the south. And sometimes jumps to the side. Again I’m going north, everything is fine. I’m going back, there is no straightness and sometimes jumps to the side. Version 5.7.2. The base is about 30 km away.
Creating the AIO pcb was a great job! Maybe it is becoming THE hardware.
Maybe I can express a wish for the next version:
I am using an DELL Venue 11 Pro 7140 as tablet pc which requires 19.4 V for charging. Currently I am using a Bootst DC/DC converter module which converts the 12 V battery voltage to the 19.4 V. There are several potential modules available
(e.g. Amazon.de or even smaller)
The output voltage is usally adjustable by a potentiometer, so all common tablets can be powered.
Perfect output connector would be a specially marked (red) USB Port, since it is quite dangerouse since it is delivering 19.4 V instead of 5 V.
Than the table is powering on and charing automatically as soon as the AIO Hardware is switched on.
I think it is worth thinking about defing an optional place on the PCB for such a module to make the system more and more smarter.
Perhapps it can be comined with the 12 to 24 V stepup - converter for the motor. (Boost from 12 V to 24V + Buck from 24V to 19.4 V)
Would love to include the tablet power, but putting a large regulator coil in with the “delicate” components is a bad idea. I have my regulator tucked away in the cab and powered from the same switch as my AIO board, it works well.
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I’m unable to get my middle LED to light up. It’s a single antenna with IMU. IMU is lit up. I think I have GPS and RTK on my tablet.
I’ve updated the teensy 4.1 (12 tabs in arduino IDE) and it rapidly blinks orange.
I’ve updated the F9P. Power light on, GPS FIX light is blinking, RTK FIX light is off. I followed the ZED-F9P firmware update with simpleRTK2B + fw version check - ArduSimple for the firmware bin file. So in the Firmware Update Utility window I left the “Use this baud rate for update” at 230400. When I updated the config file I set the baud rate to 460800. Going into the messages view it shows my version is FWVER=HPG 1.32. Going into Generation 9 Advanced Configuration View shows CFG-UART1- BAUDRATE 460800 and CFG-UART2- BAUDRATE 115200.
Thanks for any help.
You have the latest firmware and AgOpenGPS downloaded? That one screen with all the com ports is just for USB/serial connections, you shouldn’t need to set anything there with the AiO Ethernet UDP board. It looks like it’s working other then the LED and I’ve heard from others about that but haven’t dug into the details but I wouldn’t worry about the LED if it otherwise works.
Try reloading the Teensy firmware, I’ve had similar and it worked after uploading firmware a second time.
You saved the Config file in U-centre uploading it to the F9P.
Did you leave the headers at the bottom of the Cytron it on purpose, presume you’ve soldered the wires on the other end of the Qwic connector direct to the board?
Check on aliexpress for USBC → laptop plug adapter.
That + a good USB-C brick should have no problem doing 20V 5A 
This is the one I’m using it’s not cheap but so far the only that I found capable of doing the 12->20V conversion. Most of the newer stuff supports USBC PD that should make things easy.
I will try the teensy firmware again. Is there any saving for it or just the verify/upload button and then unplug it?
I did hit the “Send” button after the config file on the F9P. It seemed to be instant. No progress bar or anything. I didn’t save anywhere when I did the firmware .bin file.
When you click verify and upload, it saves the files if needed. When it’s uploading it should pop up a small teensy programmer window with a progress bar. It’s fast to flash but not instant.