yes I have seen the substitute list, I was just trying to confirm that the board it self was not going to be changing. Do not want to order and a week later there is a change to the board. Thanks
see link
https://discourse.agopengps.com/t/aog-autosteer-dual-gps-pcb/8307/289
This board has been replaced and updated. Check out “all in one pcb”
We are close to the next release as well.
I can send a new link to this one if its what you want though
We’ve been working to fix it up, and it’s close to being ready (short of any actually testing).
So what code should i be using in the all in one board
My tractor WAS sensor is on the canbus Kubota M201 i got the wiring information from the dealer and it show the WAS connector under the cab and its gnd can high and can low wire in the plug so i need to read the canbus to get my steer angle sensor
I’ve created the cable to plug into this plug and connect it to can1 on the all in one board
i tried to upload the Autosteer_AOGv5_Teensy4.1UDP_SteerReadyCAN but that doesn’t seem to work with the board i get no lights but it does find the BN008
Is there a version that to be used with this board?
Can I control the three blocks of the sprayer directly with the AIO card? Or Do I also need an arduino and a relay board, how do I connect it?
Another first time build here. I’ve followed AgOpenGPS on and off for about a year now and decided to pull the trigger and start building. So far I’ve ordered Dual GPS V5_v2.4 Std AMP boards that I pulled from repo GitHub - farmerbriantee/AgOpenGPS_Boards: Hardware PCB and firmware for AgOpenGPS Software on Feb 26th. I’ve got my first board nearly complete and have a few questions.
A little on my setup:
I’m planning to run this on a CaseIH 7220 2wd that primarily runs a sprayer and grain drill. It will also run a corn planter and do occasional tillage. We typically drill and plant at the same time so once I have one tractor up and going I’ll start into the second one (CaseIH 8910). I’m planning to run the Phidget 3269_3 24v steer motor on the first one. Eventually I’d like to get the baraki valve and go hydraulic.
Anyways I’m to the point of mounting the Cytron to the board and digging through discourse it sounds like there has been some evolution in this area since these boards were designed (looks like I should’ve grabbed files from the google link or waited a little longer). Based on the board I have, tractor and motor combination, what board/Cytron modifications should I consider? I’ve seen the board traces bypassed, but saw a recent posted that that may not be necessary with the motor I’m running and I’ve seen the Cytron freewheel mode done multiple different ways. Currently I’m planning to solder an 8 pin header on the one end of the board. On the other I would like to use the cable that came with the Cytron and solder the other end of the cable to the board. Use standoffs to support that end of the board. Should I just remove the 3pin hearder from the board and connect there or is there another spot? Then planning to remove the two components off the Cytron and add the jumper from NC. So basically following the Kaupoi v4.1, just on the AIO board.
This is the current state of my board:
I also saw one post with a wire added in the below location. Is this needed?
Thanks in advance for your guidance! I’ve got more questions, but I’ll limit this to the motor controller for now.
Looks good so far, yes you can unsolder the three pin header at one end of the cytron and solder four wires that come with the Cytron in its place, careful with the order its not in the same order as the cable.
You could just solder three pins to the end of the Cytron, looks tricky but its not to bad and then solder a wire from the hole for PWM2 next to the three headers onto the Cytron.
Like this:
If using a 24V motor you do not need to bypass the Cytron traces, the Phidgets 24V will only draw circa 0.6 amps in normal use and 1.7 amps on a U turn. The boards current sensor can be used to disconnect the autosteer when you grab the steering wheel, this also has the effect of limiting the current that can pass through the board.
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On the board where it says 24V in, you need to solder either a screw terminal or wires directly to the board and bring the 24V in from your step up converter.
No you don’t it was only very early boards that were missing that trace, you can see the trace, so all good.
Thanks Teddy! That gives me what I needed. I may try it that route so I don’t have to add standoffs.
@Jhmach are the jumper cables I’ve marked with the red arrows only needed for very heavy motors, the traces from the Cytron are already upgraded to 2oz not 1oz like the Standard AIO?
What is pin 20 on Ampseal connector being used for, I see it is 12V out from board but what is its purpose? Is anything connected to it?
I would because the traces are only 1.5mm and what does it hurt?
Not knowing what the motor current is, it’s better to be safe.
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Pin 20 was for 12v out, but I changed it to power the cytron. You can use the jumper wire and pin 20 to use 24v, but also 12v if you want. Then your cytron is on a separate power source.
The aio board will work with Autosteer_AOGv5_Teensy4.1UDP_SteerReadyCAN ?
Try this, @Arek84 :
I haven’t verified it with the last few commits from origin, at least it’ll point you in the right direction if you do need to change anything.
If I understand, 24v can be brought in through pin 20, then a jumper wire is used to get the 24 v to Cytron. Then the Cytron sends the power out to motor through pins 5&6. Would the jumper look like the picture @TeddyStamford post above except use pin 20 & 21 for ground? Yes using standard not micro
On the standard or the micro release board then pinn 20 is 12v out for power to external sensor.
Dont power the tablet with this port.
just a little confused here. so we are back to pin 20 being a 12v out from board pin with no designated purpose. To get 24V to Cytron I will need to bring in a separate wire not through the Ampseal connector? and the 24V to motor will go through pins 5 & 6 of the Ampseal connector?