I do have a 2630 that was installed for a short while, but not most of the time… Does it either way (code is thrown on command center not the 2630…)
Will try and remember to look at the code tomorrow, did look at it on service advisor once before but was a while ago to remember now!
Best thing would be to just put resistors in and make the stock SSU happy, or to just unplug it and disable it full stop, but as its set up at the moment, you can use both systems, I can plug sf3000 and 2630 in and it will steer without touching anything, which is a nice backup if AOG system failed etc…
The code at startup is the chip used for the anolog input, for some reason when the board is powered down it pulls the voltage to ground… I had the same issue, I just put the WAS input on a small relay that powered with the AOG PCB, that way its only connected when turned on, which stops that code from happening, mine is code free now other than the weird one when it steers sharp as above.
I was just wondering wether you have been able to plug into the OEM steering encoder on the 6155 and do you have any info for this? Like how to access it and what wires are what?
Also, of its helpful to anyone, I have found completely unplugging the steering controller unit does eliminate any errors for unplugged WAS or coils. I’m yet to see if this holds for unplugged encoder. There is a ‘missing communication’ error, but it is only an ‘info’ type error and just stays stored in the active codes but doesn’t beep at you and flash on startup. I think the errors I reported in my previous post were CCU related.
If it’s helpful to anyone reading, I’m a little ashamed to admit it is fairly easy to fry a cab controller unit…
When testing my setup I spliced my Cytron into the existing plugs for the hydraulic coils and energised the valve. I didn’t want to cut the harness at this point. Worked fantastic! But upon turning off the key, wipers come on, work lights come on, one blinker stays on, and a zillion active coads. 2K, a few tech visits, and a new CCU later, I’m back on track. Surprisingly the steering controller was not affected at all. Just the CCU. My theory is that my Cytron might have sent some reverse polarity and current to the CCU through a common ground. Maybe this will help someone to avoid what I did. I plan to unplug the JD harness and only use an AOG harness.
Sorry i completely forgot to re-reply here, thanks Peter for linking that across.
I was able to sucessfully use the stock encoder with my AIO PCB with a small modification, I had to add a resistor, or remove (I forget now but think i explained in that thread^)… I simply piggybacked one of the two stock signal wires leaving everything else connected (dosnt throw any codes that way on the tractor)…
The only problem I have, which im yet to resolve, is that occasionally it will dissengage itself in bumpy fields, the problem is that the deere encoders are extremely high resolution…so the tiny’est movement in the steering wheel will trigger it and start counting… So if your in a bumpy field. Tiny movements in the steering wheel will cause it to dissengage.
Im fairly sure a fix for this would simply be a reset timer in AOG / the teensy, so it resets count to 0 every 2 seconds or something, that way even if it did occasionaly trip the counter from bumps, it would never dissengage… Maybe something @BrianTee_Admin could add support for at some point maybe?
The AIO v4 boards are able to directly connect to the encoder. Just connect the AIO’s REM wire to one of the encoder’s signal wires. On the v2.4 you can do the resistors modification.
That should work with the normal Teensy firmware, the AOG settings set to encoder. For X000 to X030 series.
At some point after the 30 series, the encoders switched from a quadrature style to a varying duty style. I’m not sure exactly where the switch happens but your 6115R probably has this varying duty style. The AIO board is electrically able to read in this signal, but the Teensy firmware does not currently support this kind of signal.
If someone wants to work on the Teensy firmware to support this signal then I have some further details that I could send you.
Valentin has made a sketch for an external arduino to read the varying duty signal.
If someone wants to work on the Teensy firmware, he/she could take out some lines, to bring it into the Teensy code.
I can give some testing-support if someone tries to work on it.
Good to hear the latest V4 AIO has been updated to support them directly, has there been any thought to the issue with it false triggering that i mensioned above do you know?
When the encoder is near the edge of a pulse you’ll get flickering of the pulse signal.
One issue is that the pulses are counted and not reset. A few lines of code could decrease the count by 1 every so many cycles and that would probably take care of that.
A bigger issue is that the Teensy has no way of knowing if its a stationary flicker or rapid steering wheel movement. I don’t know the best way of dealing with that, other than reading the full quadrature (2 wire connections) so that the Teensy knows steering wheel direction (then you could do fun things like steer assist with a steer valve too). That’s what the OEM systems do - read the full quadrature.
Another issue is that the digital pin is read once per cycle and that read frequency is lower than the pulse frequency during steering. That causes aliasing of the signal - missed pulses. You’d pretty much have to re-write the firmware to use interrupt service routines to track the steering wheel position to fix that one. That’s really messy when its an all in one board and the same pins could be used for a pressure switch or an analog sensor and the same “stop-steering” function can be triggered by over current.
When there are so many different possible combinations of things its hard for the firmware guys to write firmware - they can’t test every possible combination of AIO connection.
The easiest thing to do is to set the pulse count in AOG pretty high. I think I have it set to 14 in my 8300 and that seems to work without any modifications. Like you, I also just piggy-backed one of the Deere encoder signal wires.
Yeah I increased my count to somewhat remove the issue, but its not ideal as ive got mine high enough now that its a little “annoying” when you grab the wheel at the end of a pass to get it to dissengage, but even with that settings, it will randomly drop out if the wheel happens to rest in the right place…
I did think about tapping the second encoder signal also and running both inputs into another arduino or something just to require x pulses from both before then outputting a pulse to the main PCB, but obviously this would also work on the main board if we had two inputs available and a firmware change…
Hey guys, I’m having an issue with my valve in my 6155, well, maybe more like a concern.
I completed my build last night and got everything hooked up and talking to each other.
Initially I had my Cytron MA wired to pin A of the left solenoid, MB to pin A of the right solenoid, 12V+ from the PCB V2 to pin A of the valve enable solenoid, and then a common ground to pin B of all three solenoids. But the valve was going haywire. With my steer settings set to a reasonable range (I used Pat’s starting settings from earlier in this thread) the valve would shunt violently and randomly in either direction, and would also tend to drift towards one side or the other despite set angle being zero.
When I removed the common ground to all three solenoids by hitting an E-Stop switch I installed, the valve functions as smooth as butter. It finds the set angle smoothly, goes the right direction, doesn’t miss a beat. But, it’s technically running with no ground!! Except maybe through the chassis of the valve itself? Interestingly, when I turn the autosteer off, have the valve grounds connected, and depress the manual buttons on the cytron, the valve behaves normally then as well.
As far as I can tell my wiring and connections are solid. I don’t have any dead shorts or anything and not popping any fuses. Have I stumbled on a different kind of valve operation? Or Is something possibly wrong? I don’t want to damage anything. But as is, it’s working perfectly without the grounds attached…
Maybe that switch is opposite as expected, so you made GND by hitting it.
Try to bypass/remove the switch.
I don’t think cutting GND is a good safety thing.
Or at least cut all three with 3 different switches.
I had the same thought and double checked that, but it’s definitely a NC switch with full continuity. I tried bypassing the switch also and wiring ground directly to the PCB.
Is there any electrical dynamic that could occur by having the grounds soldered together at the valve? I’m using 4mm 7 core truck trailer cable that I had lying around for WAS and valve. Didn’t have enough cores for individual grounds so i made three grounds out of one wire close to the valve. I figured it wouldn’t be an issue as the grounds are common at the PCB anyway and the cable is able to take the combined current easily.
I do not know JD tractor, I use baraki valves. But the GND together should not be the problem.
I have all my valves put together and GND ed at the valve block, and only use one GND wire from PCB to that same GND spot.
But let us say your GND wire from pcb to real tractor GND, is too thin then you can get all sorts of problems.
Just had an bad GND problem today , when turning on full headlight beam, the electric gear on tractor would activate two gears at same time. Turned out to be faulty GND between cabin and chassis.
Hi Larsvest, thanks for the clarification and ideas. I appreciate it.
I spent some time on it today and got it worked out. I spent a bit of time testing my harness and connections and grounding with multimeter and the results were good. I also tried inverting coils WITH the ground connected and that fixed my issue. Now it’s running smoothly with the ground connected. My best guess is there is some sort of solenoid grounding interaction when the ground is detached that allows it to energise the opposite solenoid, as the solenoids are still linked together by the common ground wire in the harness. Strange.
Remember that the cytron connect the wire to the ground when not feeding voltage.
If you have all coils connected together on the ground side but not connected to the ground, if you activate the cytron current will flow to the first one then past trough the second to return to the cytron. Activing both selenoids to the same voltage.
To know if the coils pins order matter measure resistance from each pin to the frame.
Meaning that your wheels were steering opposite when using the manual "drive " function in steer settings? (Press right arrow and wheels go left)
So actually you could have used the invert direction setting AOG!
bonjour
j’utilise un 6195r et la valve fema, reliée au cytron
j’ai toujours de léger gauche droite , le tracteur suit la ligne mais çela pourrais être amélioré,
quelqu’un utilise la valve fema brancher ainsi, sans modification de l’ino ?
quel sont vos réglages dans aog ?
merci de partager votre expérience !
I plan to unplug the JD harness and only use an AOG harness.