Hi
what configuration should be used in Base?
i have a problem that the rtk disappears sometimes for a short time and the positioning accuracy is in the order of 0-0.5m how i can make this more reliability?
Hi
what configuration should be used in Base?
i have a problem that the rtk disappears sometimes for a short time and the positioning accuracy is in the order of 0-0.5m how i can make this more reliability?
Are you using F9p? The connection to your base is radio? If it works most of the time, chances are good that the configuration is OK. But there may be interruptions in your RTK link.Maybe you want to cut some trees or improve yoour antenna.
I have an oilfield location near by that causes some interferences. They apparently are using the same frequency, and causes me to loose rtk at times for a minute or two.
yes i am using f9p with original black ublox antenna. Connection is via ntrip and the base antenna have clear skyview
In this moment i am using aortner base konfig ,but i dont remember wich version, but it is old (1-2years). So i was thinking if that is not correct with mtz8302 config files.
Good point there is a big cell phone tower near our farm. That could cause interferences?
Hi torriem,
Just wondering if you can give me some more info on the firmware version you use and the configuration file.
I have reflow soldered a SX Pro to an adapter board but cant get the config right
XBP9X-DMUS-021
Many thanks,
This should be in its own topic. Iām using the XTC Hopping Firmware (North America), version 2006. Thereās also an Australian version, which is version 2206. Config is just a matter of setting Network ID, Preamble ID, Serial port settings. Everything else was left at default. I assume you have the XCTU software working?
Thanks for getting back to me,
Ive had no problems using XCTU but I never changed the firmware so thats were I went wrong
I ended up making a reflow oven out of a toaster oven and reflowed it to this adpater board;
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XBee-868-SMD-to-DIP-adapter-Board-/332724410995
Very nice!
Hey! I was offered to use a new module āPX1172RH-EVB: PX1172RH EVALUATION BOARDā, cost $ 360. will this work with AOG?
It should, and others have worked on it Dual GPS using SkyTraQ receivers.
I have a working system based on this, however have issues with losing RTK. This appears to be an issue with suspected temperature compensation as you can blow on the receiver and it will lose fix. I also have a system with a F9P and it is rock solid. No troubles with it at all.
Another minor thing is it takes the corrections on one usb and outputs the position on another so I havenāt been able to use the NTRIP through AOG as you can with an Ardusimple board for example.
<Edit: this seems to have been updated so can use just one usb. I will need to update my firmware and try thisā¦>
Did you ever finish your project ?
I did. I have 3 of these units working on local farms. Currently, I have a new revision ordered which will use a different enclosure and PCB design to make a bit more space to install the PCB. I also hope to use the new Dual GPS code which has the integrated NTRIP. My apologies for not having a BOM and PCB design files to release. The local farmers are requesting section control also, and Iām scrambling to get it all done for spring workā¦ Enough saidā¦ If I donāt post by midsummer, bump me again as I tend to forget stuff in the scramble they call life. Just in case I didnāt mention this before, I appreciate all the community is doing in the AOG world, and am looking forward to contributing back.
Hereās a sneak preview of the second revision of the dual GPS system. The enclosure is 6.299" L x 3.543" W (159.99mm x 89.99mm) X 2.362" H (60.00mm)
Sadly, the integrated NTRIP in the dual GPS Esp32 isnāt working yet. I need to try the latest code on mtz8302.
I have made a provision for PWM out on the PCB to connect to rate controllers like TopCon, Raven, and etc.
Looks nice. The pwm out is the optocoupler on the pcb ? Wish you would tell a little more about how you went about it.
Are you planning to add a W5500 for ethernet ?
Yes, the CNY17 optoisolator is for PWM out. The rate controllers I tested have a 5V output, that gets shorted out with a PWM signal. I believe thatās called sinking. Since I wanted to isolate the grounds (rate controller & dual GPS) anyway, and the Esp32 doesnāt tolerate 5V, an opto was the obvious choice. I am planning on putting in a heavier opto (the cny17 is what I had), even though itās working fine for the one farmer who requested it.
I added the code to the main dual GPS code from mtz8302 to output PWM per MPH, at the rate selected by the user in the WebUI.
At this time I have no plans to add wired ethernet. I spent a bit of time updating the WiFi code:
This has resulted in a system we are pleased with. I originally wished for a W5500, but WiFi is working so well I doubt Iāll switch, barring future problems. The one concern I had about ethernet is all the cables strung around the tractor. Maybe not really an issue?
For this PCB to be useful, one needs to have my latest code, that I only have locally. Sighā¦ Maybe by tomorrow I can get the section control off the list, and get some of this code uploaded to Github.
I have been wanting a speed signal for my planter monitor. It is 10v. Could I just bring 12v into a 7810 regulator and use pwm from optocoupler to gnd of 7810 for frequency ?
LM7810
That is another reason I used an optoisolator. It doesnāt matter what voltage you feed into it, as long as it is sinking. Max voltage needs to stay less than 70V of course, as per the datasheet. This means that you can connect / disconnect the wires together really fast, and get a pulse signal on your planter monitor. If you have a 10V signal on your wires, it is very probable that the planter monitor is sourcing. Which means you need a sinking GPS speed output.
If the planter monitor is sinking, you will have no voltage on the wires. Then you hook the 7810 regulator up directly to battery / power source and feed the 10V output through the optoisolator to the planter monitor. If your planter monitor is indeed sinking, could you report back, as I would want to add that feature, configurable with switches or something. There is plenty space on the PCB.
The hookup you described MAY work, but it is non standard. Switching the power to a regulator is typically a bad idea. If you arenāt aware yet, linear voltage regulators usually have capacitors on the input and output, so feeding PWM through the regulator will get lost.
I didnāt think about that, I donāt think it would work. I donāt know of another way to do it short of running through the regulator then through a switch. Any suggestions ?