Ok thanks, I googled the #1 pin on a 4n33. Problem is my schematic and my PCB v2 have the bases a half turn off so I am not sure where Pin 1 is on my PCB.IMG_20200127_144636|375x500
I have the 1000ma 7805 so that answers that one.
I just haven’t received my 8452 yet but it’s going on PCB.
Thanks for help
I assume the A0,A1 g A2 are analog inputs directly to the Nano?
Still not sure of the D2 and D5, look like digital inputs to Nano?
And the J1 looks like it hooks to the SDA and SCL lines that are also connected to the 8452? I will have to Google SDA and SCL
A schematic bears little or no relation to physical layout and certainly not real world orientation. The PCB silkscreen does clearly show the orientation though.
SDA and SCL are i2c bus headers which are useful if you use a BNO055 for heading.
I think you refer to the schematic.pdf further down in the libraries.(AgOpenGPS_Support > PCB > AutosteerPCB_Gerber>AutoSteerSchematic.pdf)
Look at R12 it goes to pin 1 on OK2 (the OK closest to relay) and from OK2 pin 2 to steer switch.
Now follow the trace on the board from R12 to pin1 
Some OK4N33 only have a little dot (or hole) just by the pin 1 and no big notch as the ones you got. Mine are white and have a little hole.
It’s making more sense all the time, I should have looked at a new board and schematic a little more, the lines are under the components. I think I have pin 1 where it’s supposed to go now . Looks like I soldered a few extra things on but that’s Ok
Where can I get the pcb board
We have a PCB section, some useful guidance to order PCBs:
You could also mention your location. Perhaps someone has extra PCBs for sale.
I have 4 spares here in Cornwall UK
…and maybe 1 or 2 here in Cheshire.
I put together a pcb, but when I put the on-off switch on, my arduino nano broke. If I plug my nano into the USB port now, the power- and rx-LED will burn constantly, but there is no port recognized. Does anyone have an idea what I did wrong?
I have another nano, but don’t dare put it on the board now if I don’t know what went wrong.
Every connection should be checked with a multimeter prior to adding power.
Not hard to do, just systematically go through every trace/connection checking for correct polarity of components, continuity through wanted joints & unwanted bridges to nearby traces.
Thank you for the reply.
I think I found the fault.
My Arduino was under 12 volts. Turns out the voltage regulator gives 12 volts to the output.
What number is printed on your regulator? (7805 or 7812)
Did you mount regulator pointing right way?
The number is 7805.
I mounted it so that it is farthest from the capacitors.
I ordered from mouser with number 490-P78E05-1000.
Maybe this one has a different pin out?
You have to install it this way:
The white dot on your 7805 from mouser marks pin 1, so it looks like you have mounted wrong way 
The “sign” on the pcb looks like the linear 7805 (the white wide line on pcb image the metal back of 7805) , and they fit easy. Some of the converter type you have fill more to the “back” so it is a little difficult to get them all the way down because they get close to capacitors.
As far as I remember it is also recommended to get 1500 ma type, and I see you have 1000 ma type.
Also check again, when they are turned around, that they are not damaged and can give 5 V out.
Could you post a photo of your pcb?
Here a picture of my pcb. I think Larsvest is right and my voltage regulators were mounted the wrong way. I had put them as in the assembly video, but apparently my pin-out is different. In the photo I have already removed one regulator. That one still works.
Upgrading from my bodged perfboard setup that I’ve used for 2 years now and have some questions as I finish up soldering a PCB V2:
DOG2 on the board, is that 2pin header with +12V and gnd just a power header and you run whichever axis signal to one of the 3 analog inputs beside it?
IC1 is for a BNO055? Do those pins correspond to the Adafruit BNO because there’s no markings on the board and the schematic pinout doesn’t seem to match my old BNO on the perfboard. It goes Vin, 3v,GND, SDA, SCL, RST.
WAS, if using the PA automotive sensor, what’s the signal line, Sense High through the ADC?
What are STEER, IMP, and REMOTE for, switches? If so, I"m guessing “Com” is ground on this particular header, and “0” is a signal line that’s taken Low to trigger the opto?
I’m also confused why there’s an ADC on here when there’s 3 unused A lines on the Nano. Resolution level?
I don’t have the BNO but if you have the one that looks the same as on the wiki drawings, I’m sure it must be the correct one. Check pins from the PCB2 wiring diagram.
I believe the rest you answered yourself except the DOG2 signal, you should put it through the ADS1115, check the correct pin from the INO configuration description.
IC1 is for the MMA IMU. The BNO connects to 5v GND, SDA and SCL. I actually connected my MMA with a ribbon cable because mine is the Adafruit 14bit one with a different pinout. This has the advantage of giving you more orientation options for the PCB too.
Obviously the BNO needs to be connected to the PCB with cable too as the aforementioned pins are not grouped on the PCB. I personally wouldn’t place the BNO anywhere near the motor driver anyway.