Wow that does look like a compact solution! Blows my mind how to “talk” to it.
If it is CAN bus do you send it a HEX # that tells it which way to open, how far and how fast?
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Basically yes, one J1939 message that has direction and flow amount.
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Hi Pat I can’t believe how hard it is to find a valve! One guy I’m talking to wants a complete part number for the hydraforce. Do your have the full part number? I’m thinking SP08-D-6T-N-12-DL and 7025860 for the block based off the pic below. Does that look right?
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SP08-58D is not good unless you have counter balance because A,B,LS,T are joined in centre.
You need like SP10-58C A,B blocked and LS,T joined
Is the SP10 to high flow volume?
EDIT what is a counter balance?
The guy where I ordered put it separated, spool, body, coils
So the spool would be:
SP08-0-N-00
Then one bloc (7025860), 2 selenoids (maybe 4305112 or 4308712, different wire length) and maybe a E spacer.
For complete kit: in my case I have Ecoils
SP08-58D-6T-N-12-EL
Note that you will have to add a double lock valve and, depending of your circuit, a relief valve and/or a pressure compensator if there are other functions than steering on your circuit
My setup: Hydraforce SPxx-58D
An other tread about hydraulic valves;
In my case SP10 works good but I think SP08 would be fast enough for U-turn and would be a little smoother for ABlines.
But I have a 5T 115 hp tractor, maybe SP10 is great for bigger tractors like Genesis, In this case SP10-58C would be the best choice.
SPxx-58D: counter balance or double check valve works.
Here is 2 options I have been given.
Would either of these work?
Could 4 and 2 be used for LS and T. I’m learning here but to me it looks like LS would have to be 1 and T would have to be 1 and 3 in this case?
2 & 4 must be your wheels, 5 pressure, 1 LS, 3 tank.
F needs extra valve to stop wheels from moving in centre, you have better control if you use this type with counter balance valve.
E needs one less valve but both E & F really need 1 LS to 3 tank when in centre.
Have you looked into other valve types?, maybe this Hydraforce is not your best option where are you from? Is your current steering system open or closed centre (LS or Not?)
Ok I finally received my Hydra force valve SP08-58C-6T-N-12-EL. In an earlier post it was mentioned that I needed this and a shuttle valve is that correct? If so could someone give me a bit of a sketch schematic to get me started?
Edit: reading through this again. Is it just the 58D that requires and additional valve?
Yes the 58D need an additional valve because it put A and B to tank in neutral.
The 58C don’t need additional valve other than for safety(optional).
Ok as mentioned earlier I got the valve. Warm weather is here and I now need a diagram earlier I thought there was some on this forum but I can’t find any right now. Would someone have some advice for the below diagram?
-Do I also just Tee the P and T lines?
-And what about the case drain on the orbital?
-Also the where does the pressure sensor go for the steering cutout?
Yes simply Tee P and 5,T and 3,A and 2 and B with 4. Both LS are connected with a shuttle valve, to read the higher pressure.
Pressure transducer on the LS near the orbitrol.
Sorry the other reply must’ve gone to your email. I’ll ask it here so others can benefit.
Does #1 get
-capped?
-Tee’d with LS?
sorry what is this part? pressure relief i presume - is it a safety for the ls line?
yes, a pressure relief valve.
This will set the max pressure sent to the prop valve.
Mandatory for some tractors, depending of the circuit design.
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Kick out issue.
I am using the schematic above. Except I don’t have the pressure relief valve. The tractor steers fine. The issue I’m having is that the load sense doesn’t pressure up to kick out the steering manually some times. It seems if the valve is steering right and I turn the wheel right the load sense rises and it kicks out. If the valve is steering right and I “fight” it (steer left) it doesn’t raise the load sense line. Is there a fix for this?
I would say the Ls don’t rise enough because oil goes directly from one valve to an other. Maybe adjusting the pressure switch switch pressure? As an other remedy I could only see varying the steering wheel speed, (a quick start-stop movement)